未來之星/YOUNG MAGE. WINDAUS WISTER

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相中的模特兒Cheuk Yee正穿著Windaus Wister的設計。/Model Cheuk Yee wears Windaus Wister in all photos.

攝影/Photos : Nick D for Precursorprints.com
翻譯/Translation – Essy Chiu
造型/Stylee : 2 Dirty Guys
髮型/Hair : Jose Chu,
化妝/Makeup : Tiffany Loo,
模特兒/Model : Cheuk Yee

Windaus Wister這個名字很特別。我們於去年的香港春夏時裝週遇上了這位年輕才俊,當時他坐在香港會議展覽中心一個比較隱蔽的角落,差點讓我們錯過碰上這位謙虛的年輕人的機會。他的攤位看起來有點凌亂,一半以上的產品都已賣出,穿上他的設計的人體模型與整個環境氛圍造成極大的對比。他並沒有嘗試冒充簡約派藝術風格,但整個視覺效果卻讓人感覺在觀看IDGAFery的某個展覽,是一個“毫不費功夫” 的佈置。他的設計不單只個性突出,主題亦相當鮮明,獨特同時予人不順著潮流而行的感覺。整體而言非常優秀!Windaus Wister 像是香港時裝週的一道清泉,令我們有「這個年輕人將會有一番作為」,而沒有空手而回的感覺。

<< 中文版本在英文下面。 >>

Windaus Wister it has a nice ring to it. We met the young squire tucked away in a blind spot of the cavernous Hong Kong Convention Center last spring at the HK Fashion Fair. We almost passed the unassuming dude by. His booth looked like it had been picked over and half the merchandise sold! A mannequin with one of his creative designs looked disembodied from the entire display completely. The whole visual gave off a sense you were staring at some kinda showcase of IDGAFery, opposed to come check my wares. It was quite the ‘no effort’ presentation. It made no attempt to masquerade as minimalism, it just was. It was enough though. The 5 or six garments, not total looks ya hear, where brilliant. Their personality stood out just hanging on racks! The ideas were sharp, unique and against trend. Windaus Wister saved that fashion week for us. Instead of walking out empty handed, we came away with as sense that damn, this kid could do it BIG.

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SPITGAN – Who is Windaus Wister?
WINDAUS WISTER – Lol. Wind is my Chinese name. I wanted to have an English name so I would check the dictionary. In fact Windaus and Wister are two seperate names but when I mixed them together it looked like, sounded like, the IT brand Windows Vista! When I said the name it sounded quite interesting and then I put it together.

SG – Yeah. Its a very interesting name. It sounds like a name of magic.
WW – I met a German guy before and he asked me if I was German.

SG – What do you want Windaus?
WW – I want my lover, and my business.

SG – What do women want Windaus?
WW – All women want to have a rich husband. No need to work.

SG – Where might we have seen you before?
WW – On the Chinese reality show, “The Creative Sky Season 3” It was a competition where designers would compete in various challenges and eliminated, until they chose a winner. If you won, you would be able to continue you (fashion) studies at Parsons, and second place was a lump sum to build up your business. I finished the competition but unfortunately I was not the winner. I was given the opportunity to have one of the outfits I created be photographed in Vogue China. That outfit was worn by the famous Chinese model Du Juan.

SG – Was it a good experience?
WW – Yes! Not only was my outfit worn by a supermodel, but the entire team was top notch. The makeup artists etc.

SG – Was it very popular that show?
WW – It was very popular. In fact they even had the famous photographer, Trunk Xu on the show. He helped me do the photoshoot.

SG – Windaus, Windaus what fantasies inspire your designs?
WW – Hmmm. Sometimes I read the magazines to read model’s faces. I used to watch America’s Next Top Model and from that program I learned a lot of things about how to create high fashion. In that show the host was Tyra Banks, and she would always teach the models how to pose, and how to carry the clothes. I also learned how to ‘see’ the beauty of each person. In fact, in each person you also have your own signature. Maybe most (Asian) people think that the single lid eye (that the majority of us have) is ugly, but for foreigners, they think this is very unique, plus very sexy. So it’s a very different taste level to see things like that. I always see things in reality that become my muse and inspirations.

SG – Does it matter if your designs are comfortable or wearable?
WW – For me, if people love your designs they won’t care if its wearable or not. It’s because they like your designs, they are not concerned with that.

SG – Are you designing for another climate? Not Hong Kong?
WW – For performers I think they can wear it. If its for real life it could be a bit difficult. There are dramatic elements in my designs, so not everyone will accept it. If you don’t care about these feelings then you can wear it of course!

SG – Who are some of your favorite designers?
WW – Before, Gareth Pugh. Now maybe Rodarte. Its because they use lots of different textures and elements to mix in one outfit. Sometimes you think their clothes are very transparent or see-through but they use some amazing techniques to cover the body. You would think before they were not elements you could mix together, but Rodarte does it very successfully. That’s why I like their brand.

SG – You know when I first saw your collection it made me think of John Galliano’s work. I thought it was brave because not many people would follow that path, or touch on more the fanastical elements nowadays.
WW – Now most of fashion is more minimal stuff. They all want things that are very clean, very simple. I know that is very unique, and very beautiful also, but at the same time….now that Galliano is at Maison Margiela I think he changed a lot in his designs. Many people say now its not Margiela, because they think its not on trend, and they feel that John Galliano just put his character on it. Me, I think it’s very beautiful. Every outfit is like a unique art piece and when they put it all together its a great collection.

SG – Indeed. OK. You have 2 collections at such a young age. One is not enough?
WW – In Hong Kong you should try lots of things. If you focus on just one thing, Hong Kong people think that is very boring. They will say, “Oh my God you only do this thing? You don’t have any new things? Why I need to concentrate on your brand when there are so many others?” Also Hong Kong people love ‘drama things’. If you don’t have the money to build up your brand, then you need to do some dramatic things to attract people to it.

SG – I see you talk that ‘sustainable’ talk.
WW – Sustainable design for me is a new thing. This is my first time to do sustainable design. I think it is something quite difficult to do in Hong Kong. It’s because the people from Hong Kong follow trends from other places. For example, right now Hong Kong people are very in love with Korean style. Most of the people just buy the clothes from A-Land or H&M. They don’t create their own style. So when I design ‘sustainable’, it is very difficult for me to think how to do it. I don’t know what elements to put on the clothes to make it different (and stand out).

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SG – What is sustainable to you?
WW – To me its recycled fabrics, or you can add some irregular materials to the clothes, that have no fashion relation. For example some people might put candies, or metal on their clothes which normally you won’t wear.

SG – Ah so your definition is not about sustainable to do with the environment. Is this feature only part of your second line? Sustainability.
WW – The reason I chose to do sustainable as my second line is, I don’t want to block my design or my thinking. If you want to do something more creative you should try to do everything. So that is why I have built up 2 lines. Now I want to focus on my main line because I don’t want to just focus on the sustainable.

SG – Tell us the fairytail about the moment you realized that fashion design was your calling.
WW – For me, a lot of people said you must know a lot of fashion people in Hong Kong. You must know magazine people, photographers. Only then can you build up your brand. For me if someone likes your brand or designs they will come and find you, there is no need to find them, if they love you they will directly connect with you. I am not that social, like a PR or market person, someone like that.

SG – Ok. but what started this for you?
WW – Should be watching the American Next Top Model. It’s because this show was on for many years. When I was in high school, it was on TVB Pearl. The more I watched, the more I tried to find information on it.

SG – Wow. Hahah. Never would have thought. Tell us what you know about these groups in Hong Kong okay? Fashionally.
WW – Fashionally is a book.

SG – Isn’t it a group or organization for Hong Kong young designers?
WW – Oh it should be a Hong Kong local organization for designers, but at the same time they have a book also called Fashionally.

SG – Like a magazine?
WW – It looks like a sketchbook. That sketchbook is for Hong Kong designers to draw their clothing designs in it. Now that you mention Fashionally, they say they support local designers, they are related to the Hong Kong government and run a joint event called the Hong Kong Young Designers Competition. Maybe you have seen that before? If you are a winner of the competition, or a placed competitor, Fashionally may invite you to join their group. If they feel your designs are quite unique they will support your brand and provide you some financial aid. They may help you push your brand overseas.

SG – What is HKDA?
WW – When I studied fashion design before in Bianchi (Caritas Bianchi College of Careers), my school was related to HKDA. HKDI is a fashion school also and Poly (HK Polytechnic University) is also related. In your final year when you graduate, if you are the winner, you may get a prize from that group. The group will give some money to the designer to build their brand as well. In fact, Fashionally and HKDA have some elements that are also related.

SG – But they are separate entities?
WW – Separate.

SG – HKDA is also an fashion organization. It’s a group of older designers?
WW – A bit older. There are some people that work for these two groups (concurrently). The membership makeup is about the same.

SG – HKKIDS (Hong Kong Knitwear Innovation and Design Society)?
WW – Oh. This is because of Hong Kong Poly University. They have a knitwear course, so they will get some scholarships from them.

SG – Fashion Farm Foundation.
WW – This group not many people know it. I met them last year, but they are very subtle to do everything.

SG – Did you see they just brought some Hong Kong designers to Paris SS17 fashion week?
WW – Yeah, I know that. You mention these 3 organizations. These organizations have some connections. They are essentially one group of people maybe with a few different personnel. For example, there maybe some talents that come from the Hong Kong Young Designers competition, and they will provide some designers to the other groups. Then you make get the chance to go to Paris Fashion week, or some overseas designer competitions. They are not open on the Internet to let you apply.

SG – Oh. So you as a Hong Kong designer cannot just apply for it yourself?
WW – No. You must come from that competition and then you will get the chance to apply for this opportunity.

SG – Ahhhh…
WW – So that is why a lot of people say its a small circle.

SG – So there are a lot of designers that aren’t even a part of any of that.
WW – No. How to say… If you studied at Bianchi, HKDI or Poly U and make it to the final fashion show, then maybe you can get their attention, and will get an invitation to join their group. Or again, a finalist in that Hong Kong Young Designers competition. If you didn’t study fashion design and you suddenly wanted to become a fashion designer, no.

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SG – Ahhh. There are so many of these groups, I wonder are they overlapping? Are some elements the same? Would it be easier to just have one organization?
WW – So what I am doing, it’s like they will not approve me. So you need to be ‘in’ with them if you want to have any overseas opportunities.

SG – Or you find a sponsor yourself or private sponsor.
WW – Yes.

SG – Windaus, Windaus. We have fond memories of meeting you at the HKTDC Fashion Week last Spring but we noticed you did not participate at the new revised CENTERSTAGE event this fall. Why?
WW – Actually, when you saw me at that exhibition, that was my first time. It was also my first time to see the how the Hong Kong exhibition focuses on its local designers. That time most of the exhibitors came from China or other countries, but most were suppliers, factories, not designers. There was very little place for local design. That area was not a very attractive area. I was there for three days and I can tell you there were not a lot of people that came to our (designated) area. Some Chinese people asked for my name card and they would ask about my clothing but after the exhibition I only got a few emails about how they could provide me shipping or fabrics. They were garment makers (manufacturers), not designers. It wasn’t very useful, that’s why I didn’t apply (again).

SG – I understand. One thing I noticed this year, I talked to some local designers and it did change. The CENTERSTAGE event this year was just designers with the organizers inviting buyers. I did go there wondering if this season would actually be different or if it was just a new facade for the same old thing. It wasn’t such a big event as before but I can tell you it was just designers.

Let’s say, if you were not showing alongside suppliers and factory booths what else would you improve? You mentioned that your area didn’t receive a lot of traffic. As an observer, even I thought you guys were tucked in the back. The Hong Kong Convention Center is such a huge space we really needed to look for you. You would have been easy to miss. Did they offer you a choice of space?
WW – They just decided on one area for local designers so there were no other options. Those that spent money were provided with better areas for their business. So it was a money thing. If you provide a bad area to us why would we come to join Hong Kong fashion week again?

SG – Do you think Hong Kong people would be interested in a multi venue event for Hong Kong fashion week (like other cities)?
WW – I think for Hong Kong people if you separate it into too many places for them, it wouldn’t be good. It’s because Hong Kong people are quite lazy. They want to get all the information fast. They don’t want to spend so much time on these things, but at the same time they want that thing to be of very good quality, good price, and very quick. Everything.

SG – Have you ever showed your collection to Hong Kong’s top fashion retailers like Lane Crawford, Joyce, I.T.?
WW – I can tell you that JOYCE and Lane Crawford were sponsors of that Hong Kong Young Designers competition before. After a few years, it’s now I.T. Limited. For one year, JOYCE had an exhibition in their TST boutique, and they chose some Hong Kong designers and Chinese designers to show their pieces and at the same time sell their products.

SG – Yeah. I remember Lane Crawford had it a while ago. Have you showed your designs to any of their buyers?
WW – Hong Kong I didn’t, but for China I did. I think China people, they love to try the new things.

SG – You showed China Lane Crawford.
WW – Yes, I got one opportunity from that TV program. I forget now but it was either Beijing or Shanghai Lane Crawford where I was able to show my work before.

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SG – What challenges and benefits are there to being a designer here in Hong Kong?
WW – I would say the benefit would be its not China. ‘Cuz in China you can’t get very many of the new things because they block the Internet, so you can’t get the latest information. The bad thing is that Hong Kong people like overseas products. They don’t use their money to buy local things.

SG – Why is that?
WW – I don’t know. Its just when you grow up, your family has that sentiment, so you just share their feeling.

SG – So the opinion is that foreign is better?
WW – Maybe. For example you studied overseas so the information you got was different, even the food you eat was different. So you grown up in Hong Kong and you think that Hong Kong people don’t have their own personality.

SG – Do you think that is true? That Hong Kong people don’t have their own personality?
WW – That’s true! Now I am a visual merchandiser in Dolce and Gabbana, and in the last while I had the opportunity to go on a business trip to Australia. I could see a Australian sales person was very different from a Hong Kong sales. They work very slow, and they don’t care if the customer wants to buy the product. They love to chit-chat! In Hong Kong they will say a “Hello” and instantly try and sell you the clothes. Push them on you. So it’s different.

SG – Do you see this as your long term home? Would you like to stay here in Hong Kong and be a designer?
WW – Hmmm. You know that in the last few years Hong Kong had the Umbrella Movement? I think eventually Hong Kong will follow China’s strategy and way of life. You won’t be able to access foreign ideas as easily like now. You will only be able to slide backwards not move forward. So you ask me if I would like to stay in Hong Kong. Yes definitely. In order to stay in Hong Kong though you must figure out how to ‘tune’ yourself to accept China’s administration. I have one Chinese friend, he is very rich. He used to come to Hong Kong often to get the Hong Kong ID and passport to go overseas. Once he got the passport he has not returned. So Mainland Chinese are using Hong Kong identity.

SG – Do you think it would be a problem for you if Hong Kong becomes part of China?
WW – No. All of it is just policy. You have to accept it ‘cuz you are born in China to begin with. Whether you are born in Japan or the US you also have their follow some policies. You need to accept it. You are born there. If you want to change it you can be a protester, join a movement. You can use these efforts to try and change things you don’t like but if you won’t do that then you can’t change anything.

SG – Are fashion magazines are still important?
WW – For me they are but now most people see the news from the internet. Not a lot of people buy magazines now. In Hong Kong many magazines and newspapers have stopped. The information is very easy to get from the net. It is important to me because some people like to get the real thing. Some people love to read magazines or books etc. When its printed it’s a tangible thing. You can hold it. Computers can crash and you will lose that information, but books and magazines if you take care of them they will be there.

SG – Are Hong Kong people and the local media supportive of your work?
WW – Local people not really. Foreigners love it! A lot of Hong Kong designers do ready-to-wear. They use this as their business. They want to get money or build up their brand. For me I want to do something that I like, not just for the money. It is for those who really love my clothes or my designs.

SG – So you have more people that like what you do from abroad rather than locally.
WW – When I show my designs on Facebook or Instagram, I meet a lot of designers from other countries. They might not be very famous but they can appreciate designs that don’t look very local or have come from Hong Kong; the taste level.

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SG – How do you intend to raise your profile in the future?
WW – I just want to create something unique or things that look like an art piece. Now being a visual merchandiser I find it very boring. Maybe I am interested in other things now. It’s different. Maybe I am older? I want to do things I have never done before. I don’t know how to say it, maybe as you get older your views change. You want to do things that when you look back on it you will ask yourself, “interesting, why did you do that?” You need to do things when your young and have the opportunity. Things that will make you happy.

SG – What interesting things will you do in the near future?
WW – If you have noticed my designs, or photos, you can see that I have chosen Chinese faces to be my models. It’s because I love the Chinese look. I like to take photos as well. Sometimes some inspirations come from the model, their face. Maybe learn makeup or hair? That would be good. It’s because when you do a photoshoot most of the money is spent paying the makeup artist or hair stylist.

SG – Yeah!
WW – Its one of the challenges also. If you can have many positions…

SG – Hahahh nooooo. You have friends that will do those parts. Those are different professions. Don’t do that. Are there any other artists you would like to collaborate with?
WW – Maybe find some people from my Instagram? Some people that follow me are from different design industries. Some are in graphics and maybe i can ask them to design some graphic prints, or stylists and I can ask them to use my clothes on performers, something like that.

SG – Names?
WW – Sammy Cheung. She is my favorite star. From a young age I have always liked her. Once Anita Mui passed away, I think she made people feel that she was the legend or diva for Hong Kong. I would hope one day I could design some clothes for her performance. Actually, this season FW16, I had a friend who was helping Sammy with styling and I was able to offer her my denim look as an option for her show. In the end, she didn’t choose it or whatever, but was great that at least she was able to see my work! It was a great opportunity.

SG – How many collections have you done?
WW – 3.

SG – Second line or main line? Have you done the main line? The main line is the mystery.
WW – That’s why I put the sustainable line to be the second line. I don’t want to block the main line.

SG – Ahhhhhh. So your a mastery of PR. Trickery! Your building the hype for the main line! This year?
WW – Yes this year for sure.

SG – Ahhh I knew it! I felt it was very strange. Like where are the pictures of this main collection?
WW – I didn’t want to be labelled. I didn’t want people to say, “Oh he is a designer like this or like that.” You can’t do anything different then.

SG – That’s a good marketing ploy! You sneaky bastard!

<< 下面是中文版本。 >>

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SG:Windaus Wister這個名字從何而來?
WW:Wind是我的中文名,我想要一個英文名,於是我去看字典。其實Windaus 同Wister 是兩個字,讓我聯想起IT品牌 Windows Vista,我覺得很有趣,於是便將Windaus 同 Wister 放在一起,成為我的英文名。

SG:的確是一個有趣的名字,甚至有點似魔咒!
WW :曾經有位外國人問我是不是德國人。

SG:你的目標是什麼?
WW: 我想要一位情人同擁有自己的事業。

SG:哪你覺得女人想要什麼?
WW:所有女人都想要位有錢老公,可以不用工作。

SG :我們之前有機會在那裡見過你呢?
WW :有機會在一個中國的真人秀“creative sky”第三季裡見過我。它是一個讓設計師透過不同的挑戰及淘汰去晉級的比賽節目。如果你贏了的話,可以入讀Parsons (設計部門)。第二名可以得到一筆獎金去建立自己的事業。雖然我沒有贏,但卻得到一個在中國版《Vogue》刊登我的作品的機會,服裝更是由中國名模杜鵑演繹。

SG:那次經驗如何?
WW:好好啊!不單只有超模,還有整個非常專業的團隊參與其中。

SG :節目是不是很受歡迎?
WW:是的。他們甚至邀請了著名攝影師許闖來到節目,照片是他操刀的。

SG :有什麼能啟發你的設計?
WW:有時我會看雜誌或者在一些模特兒身上獲取靈感。我亦有在《全美超級模特兒新秀大賽》中學了很多有關「怎樣創造高檔時裝」的知識。節目的主持人是Tyra Banks, 她經常教模特兒怎樣擺甫士,又怎樣展現身上的服裝,從中我學會了怎樣去欣賞不同人的美態。事實上每一個人都有自己的獨特之處,好多亞洲人都覺得單眼皮不漂亮,但對外國人來說單眼皮則非常特別及性感。由此可見,每一個人對同一件事都有不同的觀點。我經常在現實生活中找靈感及啟發。

SG:你覺得你的設計易穿嗎?舒適度是否重要?
WW :對我來說,當他們喜歡你的設計時,並不會在意衣服是否著得上身。

SG :你是不是在設計一些非香港氣候的服裝呢?
WW :我認為表演穿著的衣服其實並不太適合現實生活中穿著。我的設計有比較戲劇性的元素,但不是每個人都可以接受。

SG:你最喜歡的設計師是?
WW:以前是Gareth Pugh,現在可能是Rodarte。他們都會在一件服裝裡混合不同的材質與元素。像一些透明的衣服,他們會用高超的技巧去遮蓋身體重要部分。你未必會想像得到那些材質或者元素能夠放在一起,但Rodarte在這方面做得非常成功,這亦是我喜歡她的原因。

SG:第一次看到你的作品讓我想起John Galliano。我認為採用奇幻元素是一個勇敢的嘗試。
WW:今日好多時尚品牌的風格都以簡約為主,非常乾淨及簡單。是的,我也認為那是非常獨特及漂亮,但同一時間⋯⋯⋯你看Galliano在Maison Margiela的設計改變了好多。很多人認為他的設計不屬於Margiela,因爲不流行,而且John Galliano 只是將自己的性格放在裡面。但對我來說是一個很漂亮的設計。每件服裝都像是獨特的藝術品、極好的收藏品。

SG:你一開始就做兩個系列,一個並不足夠嗎?
WW:如果只是專注在一件事上,香港人會覺得你好悶。他們會說「吓?你只做這些?冇新嘢啊?市面上有這麼多選擇,為什麼我要將重心放在你的品牌上?」而且香港人好鍾意一些戲劇性的事物;如果你沒有足夠的資金去建立自己的品牌,就需要在你的設計中加入戲劇性的元素去吸引群眾。

SG:我看到永續設計理論。
WW:其實這是我的首個永續設計,所以對我來說是一個頗新穎的理論。由於好多香港人都鍾意追隨其他地方的潮流,舉個例子,現在好多香港人都愛韓風,卻不會創造自己的風格,所以要實踐永續設計理論其實頗有難度。我不知應該以什麼元素去讓設計變得更特別或者突出。

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SG:永續設計對你來說是什麼呢?
WW:對我來說可以是循環再用的物料,你可以運用一些反常規的物料在衣服上。例如有人會放蠟燭或者金屬,但正常來說你是不會穿著的。

SG:所以你的永續設計的定義與環境冇關,這個永續設計的特徵只會出現在你的副線上?
WW:我選擇放在副線的原因是不想阻礙我主線的思維。如果你想有創意的話便需要嘗試做不同的東西。但我不想只專注在永續設計上面,想把重心放在主線,所以建立了兩個不同的系列。

SG:哪一個關鍵時刻讓你覺得時裝設計就是你想做的事情?
WW:有很多人會認為在香港你需要認識很多時尚界人士,需要認識在雜誌社工作的人及攝影師,這樣你才可以建立自己的品牌。但對我來說,如果有人鍾意你的設計就自然會來找你,冇必要特地去找他們。我不是一個懂得交際的人。

SG:明白。但你什麼時候開始對服裝設計產生興趣?
WW:應該是在我讀中學時觀看《全美超級模特兒新秀大賽》的時候開始。

SG:你知道Fashionally這些團體嗎?
WW:是一本書。

SG:不是一個關於香港年輕設計師的團體或者機構嗎?
WW:啊,那是為香港設計師而設的本地機構,他們出版了一本叫《Fashionally》的書。

SG:不是雜誌?
WW:它更像一本畫冊,會找來一些香港設計師畫他們的設計。他們宣稱支持本地創作,還與政府合辦了一個名為香港年輕設計師比賽的活動。若果你贏了這個比賽或者晉身決賽,Fashionally 可能會邀請你加入他們的團體。如果他們認為你的設計獨特,亦會提供一些財務援助去支持你的品牌。甚至可能協助推銷你的品牌到國外。

SG:HKDI呢?
WW:是一個時裝設計學院,與理工大學有關聯。如果你在畢業那年於設計比賽中勝出,你會獲得一筆獎金去建立自己的品牌。事實上,Fashionally同HKDI在一些範疇中也有關聯。

SG:但兩者是分開機構?
WW:是的。HKDI同樣是一個時尚機構。

SG:他們的設計師的年資是不是比較長?
WW:一點點。也有人同時在兩個團體工作,他們的會員平均年資其實差不多。

SG:HKKIDS呢?
WW:理工大學開設了一個紡織課程,學生可以從這個機構申請獎學金。而Fashion Farm Foundation 這個機構則不是很多人知道。我都是於上年才認識他們,我認為他們做的所有事情都非常之精打細算。你知道他們最近帶了一些香港設計師去巴黎的2017春夏時裝周嗎?你剛提過這個三個機構,它們都有一定的關連。本質上他們是同一群人,幾個人事部門。舉個例,他們會介紹一些來自香港的年輕設計師參賽者給其他機構,那你便有機會去巴黎時裝周,或者參加一些海外的設計比賽。但這些都不會在網上公開報名。

SG:所以你不可以香港設計師身分去報名?
WW:不可以的,一定要是出自他們的比賽,才有申請資格。

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SG:那很小圈子,那亦是說很多香港設計師根本冇辦法參與任何活動?
WW:那也不一定,如果你在學期間晉身這些時裝設計比賽的決賽,或者成為香港年輕設計師比賽的決賽者,就有機會獲得他們的關注,繼而被邀請加入機構。

SW:這麼多時裝設計機構,它他們的功能會不會重疊?有沒有一些範疇是一樣的?如果將他們組織成同一個機構,會不會更容易運作?
WW:就像我,他們認同我做的東西。其實並不一定要加入他們才獲得去海外的機會。你可以自己找贊助。

SG:去年你的成績不錯,為什麼今年不參加?
WW:其實上年是我第一次參加。我第一次見識到香港展覽中心怎樣「專注」在本地設計師身上。那次很多參展者都是來自中國或其他國家,而很多都是供應者、廠商,而不設計師。而提供給香港設計師的地方很小,並不是熱鬧的位置。在展出的三日中,只有很少人來到我們的位置。展覽過後,我只收到數封來自廠商提供船運或者布料的信件。他們本身不是設計師,我覺得對我的幫助不大,所以今年沒有再參加。我與今年有份參與的本地設計師聊過,發現他們也有作出改變。今年活動的中心場地只有設計師,然後機構都有邀請一些買家出席,但事實上還是與以往一樣,分別不大。如果你的攤位不是鄰近廠商或者供應者,你覺得有什麼改善?

SG:你剛才提過你的擺放位置人流不是很多,香港會議展覽中心是一個非常敞大的空間,作為觀察者,就算知道你的位置比較隱蔽,我們也會專程去找你。承辦單位有沒有為你提供其他位置?
WW:由於他們已經劃分了一個區域予本地設計師,所以我們並沒有其他的選擇。而那些肯花錢的人就可以有更好的區域去做他們的生意。所以這其實是與金錢掛勾的。如果承辦單位沒有辦法提供一個比較好的位置,那為什麼我們還要參加呢?

SG:你覺得如果香港仿效其他城市,在不同地區舉辦時裝週,香港人會感興趣嗎?
WW:我覺得如果把場地分得太多不是好事,因為香港人都好懶,只想以最快速度獲得所有資訊。

SG:你有沒有將你的系列展示給Lane Crawford、Joyce,、IT 等這些香港高檔時裝零售店?
WW:他們之前也有贊助過香港年輕設計師比賽,現在是I.T贊助。有一年JOYCE於尖沙咀的店內舉辦了一個展覽,他們挑選了一些香港及中國設計師的作品展出同時售賣。Lane Crawford 早前也有一個展覽。

SG:那你有沒有將你的設計展示給任何一個買家?
WW:香港的沒有,但有展示給中國的買家。我認為大陸人比較鍾意嘗試新事物。

SG:中國的Lane Crawford呢?
WW:有,但我忘記了是北京還是上海的Lane Crawford。

SG:作為香港設計師的挑戰及優勢在哪?
WW:我覺得其中一個好處就是可以得到最新的資訊,因為在香港不會像在中國般會有網絡封鎖。壞處是香港人都偏好外國設計,他們大致上不會買本地設計。

SG:為什麼?
WW:我也不明所以。可能是因為小時候給家人影響,都會覺得外國設計比較好?舉個例子,如果你在外國讀書,接收的資訊不一樣,連食的也不一樣吧。所以在香港長大的人會覺得香港人好冇個性。

SG:香港人真的沒有個性嗎?
WW:我覺得是的!我現在Dolce and Gabbana 從事商品展示設計,早前我去澳洲公幹,可以感受到澳洲售業員同香港的不同之處。他們工作態度認真,不會理會客人是否真的會購物,而是很樂意的與客人傾計。不像在香港店員只會同你Hello然後便猛力的向你推售衣服。

SG:你覺得香港是不是一個你會長期居留的地方?你想留在香港做設計嗎?
WW:你知道雨傘革命嗎?我認為香港會慢慢跟隨中國的生活政策。你不會再像現在那樣容易得到外國的資訊。你只會不斷的後退,沒辦法前進…如果你問我想不想留在香港,答案一定是想的。但你一定要懂得調節自己的思想,接受中國的統治。我有一個很富有的中國朋友,當他取得香港身分證同護照後,便去了外國再沒有回來。

SG:你覺得如果香港成為中國一部份會不會對你造成很大的影響?
WW:不會,因為所有的都只是政策,你只需要去接受它。而且你在那裡出生就要接受那裡的政策,如果你在日本或者美國出世都要遵守他們的政策,更何況你本身就在中國出世。你可以參加革命做示威者,盡所有能力去改變你不鍾意的事,否則什麼都不會改變。

WINDAUS_SG12

SG:你覺得時尚雜誌還重要嗎?
WW:由於現在很容易在網上獲得各種資訊,包括世界各地的新聞同時裝有關的報道,導致好多雜誌同報紙都因為這樣而停刊。但對我來說,雜誌(書本)還是很重要,因為印刷是實體,你可以觸摸得到,很多人就是鍾意那種真實的感覺。

SG:你覺得香港人同本地媒體有否支持你的工作?
WW:一般,但在外國的反應不錯!有好多香港設計師只想賺錢,會用成衣製品建立自己的品牌。我只是想做自己鍾意的東西,不是為了錢,而是為了那些真正鍾意我的設計的人士。

SG:所以外國人鍾意你的設計多過本地人?
WW:我在Facebook或 Instagram 分享我的設計時候認識了好多來自其他國家的設計師。即使他們不是很有名,但起碼懂得欣賞非本地或者香港設計。

SG:你計劃怎樣去提升自己的名氣?
WW:我只係想創作一些獨特或者具藝術元素的作品。可能因為我現在的工作是展示設計師,我覺得好悶,想趁年輕做一些我從來沒有做過的事情。隨着年紀增長,觀點亦隨着改變,你會想做一些在將來當你回想,會同自己說「幾有趣喎,點解你會咁做呢? 」的事情。你要趁年輕、有機會的時候去做令你開心的事情。

SG:那你在不久將來會做一些什麼有趣的事呢?
WW:如果你有留意我的設計的話,你會發現我找了幾個中國人做我的模特兒。我好鍾意中國臉孔,亦好鍾意影相。我有時會被這些模特兒的臉孔啟發。如果我懂得化妝及髮型設計會更好,因為當你影一輯相的時候,好多錢都會花在聘請化妝師同髮型師上。可以有多個才能或者兼顧多個崗位對我來說是一種挑戰。

SG:你可以找朋友擔當其中的崗位啊。你有想一齊合作嘅藝人嗎?
WW─我的Instagram有來自不同設計行業的Follower。我會找平面設計師幫我設計一些圖形,又或找造型師將我的設計介紹給表演者穿著。

SG:最想合作的藝人有那些?
WW:鄭秀文。她是我從小便喜愛的明星。如果有一日她走了,我覺得會有好多人封她為香港傳奇。我希望有一日可以為她設計表演服裝。我有一個朋友之前是她的造型師,他向她推薦了我的設計。雖然最後沒有被挑選,但至少我有機會去讓她看到我的作品。

SG:你目前為止做了多少個系列?
WW:三個。

SG:主線還是副線?你的主線仍像個謎,你開始設計了嗎?
WW:因為我不想阻礙我的主線發展,所以先會將永續設計放在副線。

SG:所以永續設計是你主線的煙幕!會在今年推出嗎?
WW:是的。我不想給人標籤,因為你會無法去做自己想做的事情。

SG:這是一個非常好的行銷策略!你這個蠱惑仔….

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