背心及長褲/ Vest, Pant – Xander Zhou, 運動鞋/Sneakers – Adidas
採訪/Interview – Jamie Suen
翻譯/Translation – Jin Tao
攝影/Photos – Nick D for precursorprints.com
造型/Stylee – 2 Dirty Guys
助理/Assist – Maurice Choi
模特兒/Model – Bohan Qiu
書法/Calligraphy – No Pain Man
Xander Zhou，時裝設計師，今日男裝一個炙手可熱的名字。這位年輕的設計師出道數年成績已有目共睹，他不但挑戰了男裝的傳統，更同時建立了自己的一套設計美學，為中國設計帶來更高的關注度。Spitgan與這位充滿自信的大男孩做了一個訪問，讓我們一起走進他的創意世界。
Young Xander Zhou’s star has been on the rise for sometime now and we finally caught up with the livewire for a sit down conversation. In case you didn’t know,
he has, and strictly designs menswear. Here at SPITGAN, we feel in the last few years Xander has really developed his own aesthetic that is both pushing the boundaries of men’s fashion, and drawing attention to the Chinese design scene. Enjoy as we chop it up with Xander about everything under the sun!
<< English continued after Chinese >>
SPITGAN : 我可以說2011年是Xander Zhou品牌重生的一年嗎？
Xander Zhou : 2011年?!其實我不記得2011年發生什麼事情了。但11年、12年對我來說是很重要的兩年，如果你說是重生 ，我覺得也有道理。因為對我來說，13年開始是一個全新的階段，11年跟12年則比較像是個準備的時期。
SG : 在你的世界裡，STYLE是什麼？
XZ : STYLE是一種自信，來自你的生活體驗，它很獨特，沒有辦法複製、學習，也沒有辦法超實。如果你有就是有，沒有就是沒有。
SG : 你怎樣形容你的個人風格？
XZ : 我喜歡舒適的東西，很簡單、不很「時裝」的。我也很喜歡年青的事物，包括與運動有關的事物。我不一定喜歡運動本身，但對所有運動類的服裝很感興趣。我很不喜歡當下潮流的東西，心底下甚至有點抗拒，所以我有時會故意穿得很不時髦。
SG : 一些外國獨立品牌的設計與你的有著一些共通點，你覺得有趣嗎？
XZ : 其實我覺得現在的時裝已經跟所謂的潮流沒什麼關係了。雖然我們做設計的時間很短，但在創作的過程中也學習過，見到過不同年代流行過的時裝。所以對於我們這一代的設計師來說，時裝是沒有年代的，比較混亂。我們都是在看類似的東西，所以在創作時，我會以跟那些大的國際品牌很不一樣的方式去設計。我有時候會想，誰會穿那些大品牌的設計？！我覺得它們今日做的東西跟年青人想要的失去了連繫。同時，我又覺得今日很多街頭品牌太容易了，只是將幾個logo 或幾個大的digital print 放在T恤上。所以現在的年輕設計師需要去想的是，怎樣可以讓年輕人覺得時裝是cool的，手法是沒有那麼的簡單。
SG : 因為我都是年輕人，也喜歡看一些時裝雜誌的潮流，然後看看是否適合自己。
XZ : 但有時候真的沒有什麼共嗚。
SG : 你會說自己是中國設計師嗎？
XZ : 可以這麼說，但我也只是做回自己而已。「中國設計師」這個名號我是需要的，因為它會為我帶來一點好處，像大家會說：「啊! 對於中國設計師來說你能夠做到這些也挺特別的。」但對於自己的設計來說，這樣的身分我不是很在乎。
SG : 你感到壓力嗎？
XZ : 其實壓力不是來自於稱號，而是設計師本身就很有壓力。我的壓力很多時候都來自自己，因為不論我做得多好或多不好，總會有人喜歡與不喜歡。是60分、80分還是100分，只有自己才知道。
SG : 對！因為每個人的評價與感覺也不同。
XZ：像我會知道「我這次沒有做好」，因為我感到了壓力。
SG : 你會為哪一類型的男生設計？
XZ：我現在慢慢會關注不同類型的男生，很奇怪，我會在Instagram 上follow 不同的人，也會關注一些每天秀肌肉的男孩，然後看他們selfie每天做gym的成果，我覺得挺有意思的。我也會關注那些玩滑板、衝浪的男生，比如說一些法國的。我之前在巴黎拍過一些15、16歲的小男孩，他們平時的生活都是派對、抽大麻，然後都會放在Instagram上的。我會觀察不同的男生，他們的影像都刻在我腦海裡面，這對我做設計時很有幫助。因為我會想像他們穿上這些設計的樣子，然後看看剪裁是否適合。
SG : 你有想過給老一輩的人穿嗎？
XZ：他們如果穿我的衣服，我會很開心。可是我的腦子裡面沒有他們的畫面。
SG : 在設計過程中，會不會給自己一些限制／框架？
XZ：會！就是一個控制的能力，因為很多時候我的想法都很寬，如不給自己一個框架的話，系列永遠也不能完成，更可能會變成一個亂局。但那個框架一定是我做了很多research 後的一個決定。決定不一定是最理想的，框架也不一定是最滿意的，但會是最乎合當初想法的一個。
SG : 你設計時會不會問身邊朋友的意見？
XZ：我會問他們的想法，然後他們會跟我說他們的感覺，但是我根本不會聽…
SG : 不會聽？好吧！（笑）
XZ：應該說我不想知道，也許我只會問幾個人，三個？! 都是我最好的朋友，或者我覺得他們的品味最好，若果他們的想法跟我的想法相同，我會很開心，如果不一樣的話，可能到最後會堅持自己的想法。
SG : 你的衣服是不是「中國製造」？
XZ：是！
左頁/LEFT PAGE : 外套及長褲/ Jacket, Pant – Xander Zhou外套及長褲/ Jacket, Pant – Xander Zhou, 針織衫/ Knit – Hermes, 運動鞋/Sneakers – Adidas
右頁/RIGHT PAGE : 外套/ Jacket – Xander Zhou, 長褲/ Pant – Hermes, 運動鞋/Sneakers – Adidas
SG : 感到驕傲嗎？
XZ：我沒有覺得驕傲，我也沒有覺得羞恥！
SG : 中國生產／製造的質量達到國際水平嗎？
XZ：當然！你的衣服做成怎樣其實跟你在哪裡生產沒有關係，你看看倫敦、巴黎或者紐約的年輕設計師，很多都是在英國生產，但也不一定是最好的。在哪裡做我覺得問題不大，反而是整個製作上的要求，像用什麼面料、怎樣的造工，每個人都不同。但我覺得在中國某些方面做得好，像中國的OEM工業便很厲害，這麼多年一直幫國外一些大品牌做。我們有非常先進的科技及很高的生產效率，只要你有很好的計劃，在中國是可以做很多事情的。
SG : 在布料選擇上，你會選擇中國的還是在外國的？
XZ：最主打的布料來自意大利，都是當季最新的。這個沒辦法，這個跟加工、生產沒關係，因為每年最好的面料仍是來自於巴黎、意大利的布料廠商。一些物料像棉質品我會在中國找，有時也會從日本、韓國找布料，其實每個地方都會有其獨特的布料。
SG : 你曾修讀工業設計，有否將之運用於你的創作上？
XZ：愈來愈少了。最開始的時候比較多，因為那時我用很多奇怪的物料與剪裁，但現在我已過了那個實驗性的階段。
SG : 為什麼突然放棄工業設計，跑去荷蘭修讀時裝？
XZ：因為年青吧！我覺得年青的時候會做很多現在可能不會做的決定，那時候對我來說學什麼也不是那麼重要，我只想換一個生活環境。其實我在荷蘭生活了一年什麼事情也沒有做，沒有上學，時裝都是我到了荷蘭才決定去讀的。
SG : 在剛開始學習時裝時，有感辛苦嗎？
XZ：完全不辛苦！最開始做設計的時候完全沒有責任感，只是想把自己想做的東西做出來，有很多想法去要實現。當時我覺得生氣的是，為何中國沒有太多年輕的設計師。我2007年回國，當時中國時裝的媒體都沒有幾家，所以那個時候就覺得自己可以做得很好。因為年輕嘛！總是覺得自己什麼都可以，然後就回來了。
SG : 美國文化是否對你有很大的影響？
XZ：某程度上是的。其實我跟美國文化離得很遠，而且嚴格上來說，我受教育的環境是很排斥美國文化的，你知歐洲有多排斥美國文化！我要努力克服，因為我處於矛盾的中央。若果我在這個環境裡面反對美國，它們也會覺得中國不怎麼樣，對吧！？處於兩個文化交叉的中心點，我是不太會相信任何一方的價值觀，我只會用自己的方式去客觀判斷。所以我會受影響，亦不會受影響。
SG : 美國的sports/sportswear文化一直對你有影響嗎？
XZ：Sportswear在歐洲、美國都有，但Hip-Hop 文化啟於美國。我其實對Hip-Hop 不是非常熱衷，但我很喜歡他們的穿衣方式，很多年輕人也喜歡，所以它不單是一個音樂元素，更一種年輕文化的共鳴。
SG : 你什麼時候開始接觸Hip-Hop？
XZ：最早的時候…我現在腦子裡面的都是衣服跟音樂，它們大量的進入我的腦海。當年我在荷蘭的時候，正是Eminem與50 cent最受歡迎的時候，那時我身邊的朋友、學校裡的人都受著他們的影響去打扮，大家都會穿運動服、帶帽子、帶很多金的鏈子…但那個時候我覺得很土氣！
SG : 很土氣？為什麼？
XZ：那個時候我覺得這樣的風格很土氣，我是一個藝術系的學生好不好！（笑）那個時候我的腦子裡面只有high fashion的東西，像McQueen、Comme Des Garcon…
SG : 你第一首聽的Hip Hop歌曲是？
XZ：我不記得第一首是什麼了，但是最深刻的…應該是50 cent的《Candy Shop》。（笑）
SG : 你喜歡它的歌詞？還是節奏？
XZ：我喜歡歌詞吧。我覺得它的歌詞很逗，其實有時候我也喜歡Hip Hop。R&B 有一些很直白的歌詞像「性」，而且都很有需要的去表達情感。不是很浪漫的，但是聽起來很爽快。
SG : 你最近有很多外國媒體報導，有沒有一些是你特別喜歡的？
XZ : 說實話，我現在有點習慣了這些東西，所以已經不太像開始時感覺那麼興奮，但還是有一些很特別的報導會讓我覺得很開心。中國媒體的報導一直都很多，我現在跟他們已經建立了很穩定的關係。至於國外的媒體，我覺得很難說更喜歡那一家。有一些很酷的媒體拍我的東西和報導我，我可以感覺到他們好的意圖。但不一定每一家都是。（笑）
SG : 中國的媒體有沒有同樣的支持你？
XZ : 中國媒體一直以來都很支持我。
SG : 看到別人穿著你的設計時，你感到興奮還是意外？
XZ : 都有。因為有時見到別人以自己的方式穿著我的設計，與我想像的有所出入。但縱使是好看或不好看，都是一些有趣的經驗，因為他們可以為我帶來不同的想法。
SG : 為什麼你會選擇在歐洲展示你的系列？
XZ : 選擇倫敦的原因是因為我覺得它是一個充滿新奇事物的地方，那裡的人都很酷，當我初回到中國時它便給我這個感覺。
SG : 你覺得中國需要一個屬於自己的“Fashion Week”嗎？
XZ : 這個很難！
SG : 為什麼？
XZ : 跟中國的實際情況有關係吧！中國時裝很多方面的發展仍不是很平均。我覺得中國時裝媒體發展得最快，而且太快了！基本上今日在中國什麼媒體都有，但在組織時裝社團或設計師工會上，步伐仍是跟不上，這個過程需要時間。
SG : 中國市場給了你什麼機會？
XZ : 當我剛回國時它給了我很多機會。那個時候中國對年輕設計師的幫助很少，但媒體對我的關注度非常高，給了我很多支持跟報導。我希望不會讓他們失望，好讓他們繼續支持我。我覺得這樣的機會現在不多了，因為今日的設計師非常多，很難得到像以往的關注度。說實話，我不是自己誇自己，不是說自己有多好。現在愈來愈多年輕設計師誕生，我覺得這是好事，因為可以讓這個市場變得更繁榮，把整個行業推動得更快。今日有一些中國設計師在國際比賽上得到認確，像H&M及LVMH之類，這都是很正面的！
SG : 中國是不是你針對的市場？
XZ : 肯定是！中國跟國外都需要關注。現在我身處中國，所以會更留意國外發生的事情，因為不是住在那邊的話在創作時會令我失去很多信心，所以我嘗試將更多注意力放在國外，好去彌補中間的東西。
SG : 中國市場有沒有給你「要不闖一番事業要不就回家」的感覺？
XZ : 其實有。
SG : 你有沒有想過要大量生產？
XZ : 有的！但我還是覺得這個要看時機，中國不乏大量生產的品牌，而且有太多了。
SG : 對！就如H&M…
XZ : 對！在中國有很多，我覺得中國不需要更多大量生產的品牌了。在沒有大品牌進入中國之前，我相信有一百個以上的中國品牌你連名字都未聽過，每年賺億元以上。
SG : 大品牌在中國市場帶來什麼好的方面？
XZ : 我覺得他們花更多心思在顧客對品牌的忠誠度上。到目前為止它們的消費群仍不是很大，雖然它確實在增長。若果你的設計不能讓人產生共鳴、沒有溝通，那為什麼還要做下去了？品牌很快就會癱瘓。
SG : 像LV、Chanel、Dior這些大品牌，在中國有什麼做得好的地方？
XZ : 這些大品牌已經有了那麼多年的累積，所以來到了中國，都會轉向年輕市場，這個大家都看得到的。
SG : 做得不好的地方呢？
XZ : 因為它們有它們的生存法則，所以外面的人很難去評價它做得好與不好，他們做的每一步都計劃周詳。對於他們來說，最重要的可能是增加銷售，及吸引更多的消費群體。它們跟我們的想法是不一樣的，因為階段不一樣。如果有一天，我的品牌已經有幾百年歷史，可能我也不會跟你聊這些東西。因為很不一樣。
SG : 〝Fashion〞對你來說是怎麼樣的世界？
XZ : 對我來說，它不如外間想像那麼有趣，但這個世界絕對只有一個。
< < English continued below >>
外套及長褲/ Jacket, Pant – Xander Zhou
SPITGAN : Was year 2011 considered as “rebirth” for you?
XZ : 2011? Honestly, I don’t really remember what happened in 2011! However, 2011 and 2012 for me can be considered as crucial years. If you see it as a “reborn” phase, I think it makes sense. Because I think the beginning of 2013 seemed like a new phase for me, so 2011 and 2012 were more like a period of groundwork.
SG : What is “STYLE” in your opinion?
XZ : “STYLE” is confidence, your life experience. It is a very unique thing. There is no way to replicate it, no way to acquire it, and no way to transcend it. It’s part of you, or it’s not part of you.
SG : Describe your personal style?
XZ : I personally prefer simple, comfortable things, and not so much “fashion”. I like youthful things, even sports – I don’t necessarily love sports, but I am interested in sportswear. I am not a trend follower, I actually reject it a bit deep down. Sometimes, I will dress very unfashionable on purpose.
SG : There’s a common thread between your work and that of some international brands. Do you find that interesting?
XZ : Actually, I think fashion has nothing to do with trend. Our design experience may be very limited, but we’ve learned in the process. We’ve seen fashion trends from different eras, so for us in this era, fashion really has no era. It’s rather chaotic. It’s made of elements rather than groupings. That’s our fashion now. So when I rework these things, I work in very different ways compared to the big brands. From the big brands I’ve seen, it’s hard for me to imagine who would be wearing their type of clothes. I feel they’ve lost a connection with what the young generation wants, but at the same time, I feel street brands are too easy, because all you are doing is putting logos, or large digital prints on t-shirts. It’s such an easy interpretation of youth culture. Current young designers should really think, “How fashion can make young people look cool?” There is more to it than simple tricks.
SG : … because I am a young adult, I also like to read fashion magazines, and follow trends, and see which one are suitable for me…
XZ : … but sometimes you find no resonance (in it)…
SG : Do you consider yourself a Chinese designer?
XZ : I guess you can say that sometimes, but sometimes I am just myself. I really think this label, ‘Chinese designer’, is what I needed. It helps me in a certain way,
like people will say, “WOW! It’s so special for a Chinese designer to do something like this.” In terms of doing my own designs, I don’t feel the identity of being a Chinese designer is that important.
SG : Do you feel pressure?
XZ : The pressure is not from being labeled, but being a designer itself is a stressful thing. Now I think my attitude is pretty positive, most of my pressure comes from myself. Whether I do good or not so good, there will always people who like it or don’t like it. Only I know whether I scored 60, 80, or 100 points. So even if
I scored 60, others will never know.
SG : That’s true! Everyone’s judgment and feelings are different.
XZ : Only I know. “I didn’t do well this time”, because I feel the pressure.
SG : What type of guys are you designing for? In terms of body, frame, and height…
XZ : Now I am slowly paying attention to a wider spectrum of male looks. Actually, (I think) it’s weird that I am following different types of people on my Instagram. I will follow muscle boys, that hit the gym everyday and selfie their achievement. I find that interesting. Then I am also following boys who skate, and surf. There are also some from France, for example, because I have photographed 15,16 year old boys in Paris; their lives are filled with parties and marijuana… They will also post it on Instagram. It’s pretty interesting. I will observe different type of guys. Many of their images are engraved in my mind. It’s very inspiring in terms of design. When I make clothes I will imagine them wearing it, and see if my design fits.
左頁/LEFT PAGE : 毛衣及長褲/ Sweater, Pant – Xander Zhou, 運動鞋/Sneakers – Hermes
右頁/RIGHT PAGE : 毛衣/ Sweater- Xander Zhou, 長褲/ Pant – Hermes, 運動鞋/Sneakers – Adidas
SG : Have you ever considered older people wearing your designs?
XZ : I would be happy if they do wear my clothes, but I never pictured them in my head.
SG : Do you set limitations for yourself in the design process?
XZ : Yes! It’s the ability to control, because sometimes I have many ideas. If I don’t set a framework, my collection would never be finished, and can even become quite a mess! So giving myself a framework is very important! It’s a decision based on much research. It may not be the most ideal decision. The framework may not necessarily be the most satisfying one of the season but it fits the original idea best.
SG : Do you take/seek advice from friends in the design process?
XZ : I will ask what they think, and they will tell me how they feel, but I never listen …
SG : Not at all? All right! (Laughs)
XZ : Actually I should put it as I don’t want to find out. Maybe I’ll just ask a few people, maybe 3 of my best friends, if I think they have good taste… if they share the same thoughts as mine, I would be honored. If not, in the end, I will still stick to my own ideas.
SG : Are your clothes “Made in China”?
XZ : Yes!
SG : Are you proud of it?
XZ : Neither proud nor ashamed.
SG : Do you think that Chinese production quality now is world class?
XZ : Yes, of course! Actually, how well your clothes are made has nothing to do with where it’s made. You can take a look at young designers based in New York, London or Paris, they aren’t always the best, and they are made in the United Kingdom! So the problem is not where it’s made, but your production requirement, such as fabric. What kind of fabric you can think of, what kind of technique you can achieve, it varies person by person. But I think China is actually better in some perspectives. China’s OEM industry is very prosperous. It’s been processing for large foreign brands all around the globe. We are advanced in technology and efficient in production. You can do a lot in China as long as you have a plan.
SG : In terms of fabric, will you buy locally, or order from foreign countries?
XZ : I will order my major material from Italy, the latest for each season. I have no choice, but this has nothing to do with processing or production, because every year, the best fabric designs are always coming from the best fabric manufacturers in Paris, and Italy. I will also look for material in China, such as cotton products. Sometimes I will look into Japan and South Korea as well. Everyone has something unique.
SG : You studied industrial design. Have ever applied it to your creations?
XZ : Actually industrial design is offering me less and less. In the beginning I used more, because I dealt with a lot of strange materials and new cuttings. Now I am already passed the experimental phase.
SG : How did you find the courage to abandon industrial design, and go to study fashion design in the Netherlands?
XZ : Probably because I was young! I think when you’re young you are more daring. (Able) to make decisions that you maybe afraid of now. Back then subject was not really important to me. All I wanted was a new living environment. I lived in the Netherlands for a year, and actually did nothing, I didn’t go to school, I decided to study fashion after I arrived in the Netherlands, and it was because I gave up my life in China, and travelled to Netherlands to explore for a year.
SG : Did you find it hard to study fashion?
XZ : Not at all! I just made whatever I wanted without the sense of responsibility in the beginning, just to realize my ideas. I was also mad at the fact that China had only a few young designers, I came back in 2007; there were only a few fashion media (outlets) in China, so I felt I could do well. Because I was young, I had the confidence to achieve anything! So I came back.
SG : Is there a great influence of American culture on you?
XZ : To some extent. Actually I am pretty far from American culture, strictly speaking. My educational environment was very exclusive of American culture. You know how much Europe rejects the American culture! They are closed to each other. I had to practice in order to overcome that, because I felt my place stood in-between the conflict. If I showed opposition to the United States, they would also think low of Chinese, right? I was at the center of cultural conflict. I wouldn’t side with any of their beliefs. I could only judge objectively in my own way, so I was both affected and unaffected.
SG : Has American sports/sportswear been a big influence on you?
XZ : There is sportswear in Europe, and United States, but Hip-Hop culture belongs to the United States. I am not very into Hip-Hop culture, but I really like the way they dress, and many young people do too. So it is not just a musical element, but also the resonance with the youth culturally.
SG : When did you first come into contact with Hip-Hop?
XZ : In the very beginning… Now it’s like the music and image emerge in my head at the same time. They flood into my brain! Back when I was in the Netherlands, was the time when Eminem, and 50 Cent had a great influence on the people around me, and the students at our school. They all wore sportswear, caps, and gold chains… but at that time I thought it was very tacky!
SG : Very tacky? ! Why?
XZ : I just thought the style was tacky, because I was an art student! (Laughs) All I ever thought about at that time was high fashion, McQueen, Comme Des Garcons…
SG : What’s was the first Hip Hop song you heard?
XZ : I don’t remember the first song! But the one that left a deep impression on me… should be “Candy Shop” by 50 cent. (Laughs)
SG : You like the lyrics? Or the rhythm?
XZ : I think it’s the lyrics! I thought it was quite interesting. Sometimes I do like a little bit of Hip Hop. Also, R&B lyrics contained straightforward words such as “sex”, and had a “very needy” way to express the emotions. It’s not so romantic, but very refreshing.
毛衣/ Sweater – Xander Zhou, 牛仔褲/ Jeans – DRESSCAMP (from JOYCE Boutique), 運動鞋/Sneakers – Hermes
SG : You have recently received a large amount of foreign press coverage, is there anything you like in particular?
XZ : To be honest, I am a little used to these things now, so am not so overly thrilled by it like I used to be. Having said that there are some special perspectives and stories that really enlighten me. Something recent? There has been substantial amount media coverage in China, so I have established a very stable bond with them. As for the foreign media, I can’t say which one I like more. I have always felt that there are some cool media outlets that are willing to shoot my stuff and give me more coverage, I could feel the good intention, but it’s not necessarily everyone. (Laughs)
SG : Has Chinese media been supportive?
XZ : Chinese media has always been very supportive!
SG : People who wear your designs, does it excite you or surprise you?
XZ : Indeed! Real people wear my clothes in their own way, and it can be very different from my imagination. Whether you like it or not, it’s always a quite interesting experience, because it allows you to think differently.
SG : Why do you choose to show your collections in Europe?
XZ : I choose London because it’s a city that’s always filled with latest things. People there are really cool. It kinda gives me the impression of when I just returned to China…
SG : Do you think China should host a unified Fashion Week?
XZ : That’s gonna be hard!
SG : Why?
XZ : It’s has to do with the actual situation in China. In terms of fashion, the development is not well balanced in every aspect. Chinese fashion media is growing the fastest, too fast. It’s hard to catch up! Now basically China has every kind of media, but in terms of organizing a fashion society and fashion designers… it is not in sync with the media. The process will take time.
SG : Being based in China, what has the mainland market offered you?
XZ : They’ve granted me a lot of opportunities when I returned. Back then, China did not cover much of its young designers, but the media gave me a lot of attention, and a lot of support. I hope that I will not disappoint them, so they will continue to feel that they can support me! I think (that scenario) is less likely to happen now. There are too many designers now. It’s hard to get the kind of attention I received. It’s honest, I am not bluffing. I am not saying how good I am, that’s not my point. There are more and more newcomers now. It’s a good thing. It makes this market prosperous, and pushes the whole industry forward. It’s fast paced. For example, China now has designers getting recognized at the international competitions; the H&M award, the LVMH prize and so on. These can be regarded as very positive aspects!
SG : Is China your targeted market?
XZ : Definitely! I need to focus on both China and foreign countries. Since I am in China, I pay more attention to (what is happening) overseas, because I don’t live there. That can restrain my confidence in the process, so I try to make it up through paying more attention to the other side.
SG : Does the Chinese market give you the impression of “Go big or go home”?
XZ : Yes.
SG : Have you ever thought about doing mass production?
XZ : Of course! I think timing is important. We have to wait for the right opportunity. Chinese brands are not lacking in mass production. We have too much.
SG : Yes! Like H&M…
XZ : Right! There are a lot similar ones. I don’t think China really needs another mass brand, it already has so many. Back in the day, in the absence of big name brands, I believe there were more than 100 Chinese brands that you would have never even heard of, yet they earn billions a year!
SG : So what have big Chinese brands done well at in the Chinese market?
XZ : I think they are likely to pay more attention to developing loyal brand consumers. Because their consumer group doesn’t seem very large right now, though has been growing. If your designs cannot generate resonance, and communication among people, what’s the point to keep it going? It will become paralyzed in no time!
SG : What about brands like Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Dior…what have they done well in the Chinese market?
XZ : The big brands they have had many years of accumulation. So in China, I think they are more targeted at the youth market. Everyone can see it.
SG : Anything they’re not doing so well?
XZ : Because they have their own survival rules, it’s hard for outsiders to judge whether they’ve done well and not so well. They are guided by a very detailed plan every step of the way. Maybe for them the main purpose is to increase annual sales, and attract more consumers. They are very different from us, because we are at different phases. If one day, my brand becomes 100 years old then we won’t be discussing these things, because it’s gonna be different.
SG : What kind of world is “Fashion”?
XZ : For me, it’s not a world as exciting as everyone thinks, but there’s absolutely no world like it!
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