JUNWEI LIN SS17 MEN’S WEAR

小屁孩!由Junwei Lin的Lookbook造型,我得出了這個總結。這並非在批評她的設計,我更想指出「小屁孩」並不是如此負面的一個形象。在時尚圈子中我認識不少這類型的人,他們很直接、忠於自己、有自己一套的生活和追求。他們勇於嘗試,有強勁的親和力,透過溝通暗地讓自己更加進步。他們表面看起來雜亂無章,但實際上有着堅穩的知識背景和想法。而這一個性格特質,我正好在Junwei Lin的系列上也找得到。林君葦的作品看似瘋狂又古怪,但實際上這系列的男裝用上不少傳統男裝板型和布料,例如幼間西裝布和格仔西裝布。又例如傳統的西裝版型直接剪開了一半變成背心上衣。她將傳統的男裝分解得支離破碎,卻成功建造出無規限、忠於自己的系列,讓傳統的男裝工藝不再那麼沉悶。
其實,要當個小屁孩並不容易。你要了解自己,然後夠膽面對自己、忠於自己。假如世界多一些這樣的人,也許會更加有趣!

攝影 Photo From / Courtesy of Junwei Lin
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放音樂/MUSIC IS PLAYING. GOLDFISH TV 12

Our homies at Goldfish TV first hit each other up on Instagram about clothes, then started filming parties. Before long they were up and running with their channel, BOOM! If you ain’t seen it, that’s a dark rock you under! It’s fashion, art, hip hop, drugs, or the the dark web; they documenting Hong Kong’s complex subcultures (without a filter), and supporting the homies who are pushing the city forward.” We like to call ’em a skate pack here at the ‘GAN, and the good fellas, and now gals, have been kind enough to lace us with the June playlist! Check check!

Find Goldfish TV here : http://bit.ly/2017GoldfishTV

Yung CoCo – Sakkaku

HONG KONG CUSCS FASHION EXHIBITION

有日放假,突然SPITGAN的Facebook page收到了一個中文message(真的未試過有人用中文message我們哈哈!)。原來是中文大學專業進修學院Fashion Design and Business的同學邀請我們去Graduation Exhibition。老實說,當同學帶我去到展覽場地,我有點錯愕。因為那只是學院中一條走廊和班房,地方很小、燈光很暗。但我意想不到,居然不少同學都在自己的架前,可以直接介紹自己的系列。這個行為我十分欣賞,可以看得出他們對自己作品的心思和重視,是我在其他學院展覽是比較少見的。除此之外,每個同學都有一張collection postcard,可以想像到他們用了多少時間準備。

雖然我十分欣賞他們的心機,但既然是Fashion design and business的展覽,我所要求的肯定更多,除了設計,還有視覺效果、造型等等。我必需指出在這幾方面,他們都有很大的進步空間。首先是設計方面,不少貼身設計的作品胸和腰的線條比例略有偏差,導致不少image photo的造型都有衣不稱身的感覺。有些貼身設計什至沒有預留胸部線條的摺位,令穿著時衣料有大量摺痕。布料方面,特別是拼接布料的設計,布的品質重量相差太遠,當這兩種布拼接一起,原本有趣的設計即時被那塊布拖垮了。這點必須注意。

然後是視覺表達方面,19個系列的image photo基本上是同一姿勢,不能突顯設計優點,也帶不出設計理念和故事。而且當日的展覽只有少數同學有留意到展區的設計,使可觀性大大減低,也營造不到系列故事的氣氛。

不過對於這在時裝方面較新發展的學院課程,我覺得已經做得不俗。我記得有一位同學跟我提過,她買回來的布料因爲不是她心目中的透視,於是她一格一格人手挑起部分紗料。這份毅力相信在其他充滿資源的Fashion school找不到吧!CUSCS加油!

POSTCARD

Photo by Fish Yu

放音樂/MUSIC IS PLAYING. GOLDFISH TV 11

Our homies at Goldfish TV first hit each other up on Instagram about clothes, then started filming parties. Before long they were up and running with their channel, BOOM! If you ain’t seen it, that’s a dark rock you under! It’s fashion, art, hip hop, drugs, or the the dark web; they documenting Hong Kong’s complex subcultures (without a filter), and supporting the homies who are pushing the city forward.” We like to call ’em a skate pack here at the ‘GAN, and the good fellas, and now gals, have been kind enough to lace us with the June playlist! Check check!

Find Goldfish TV here : http://bit.ly/2017GoldfishTV

G$MOB – Chigga

放音樂/MUSIC IS PLAYING. GOLDFISH TV 10

Our homies at Goldfish TV first hit each other up on Instagram about clothes, then started filming parties. Before long they were up and running with their channel, BOOM! If you ain’t seen it, that’s a dark rock you under! It’s fashion, art, hip hop, drugs, or the the dark web; they documenting Hong Kong’s complex subcultures (without a filter), and supporting the homies who are pushing the city forward.” We like to call ’em a skate pack here at the ‘GAN, and the good fellas, and now gals, have been kind enough to lace us with the June playlist! Check check!

Find Goldfish TV here : http://bit.ly/2017GoldfishTV

Whvsper – BL@CKBOX (4k) S11 Ep.42/180

VIX WOMEN’S SWIMWEAR

泳衣本來就少布,因此創作上剪裁和印花通常都是主角,但要有突圍而出的作品確實不易。Vix的泳衣線條簡單利落,例如黑白橫間的連身泳衣,設計雖然簡約,但腰間的小露腰細節增加了身材線條感。全黑掛頸比堅尼也能利用掛頸的線條形造較寬橫的肩膀。非常簡單的造型卻能展現出最完美的身材。

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FFIXXED STUDIO SS17 WOMEN’S WEAR

Ffixxed Studio是個由時裝和藝術結合而成的品牌。創辦人Fiona Lau 和Kain Picken由合作藝術企劃開始,由於常用布料作藝術品,獲得Bless的注意,就索性成立時裝品牌。他們是少數本地品牌在內地設廠,由設計到成品一條龍做時裝。
當我見到他們的ss17作品,我第一個反應就覺得像街頭版Celine,因為設計的線條十分簡潔,用色也偏向單色搭配。而街頭感的主要來源是他的配搭。例如黃色的一字肩連身裙加上白色透視內搭,長腰帶和藍色絲襪、藍色恤衫配白色T恤和長腰帶、螢光色連身裙搭黑色半穿外套等,他們都能夠在設計中發展具自己特色的形象。

攝影 Photo From / Courtesy of Ffixxed Studio
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放音樂/MUSIC IS PLAYING. GOLDFISH TV 9

Our homies at Goldfish TV first hit each other up on Instagram about clothes, then started filming parties. Before long they were up and running with their channel, BOOM! If you ain’t seen it, that’s a dark rock you under! It’s fashion, art, hip hop, drugs, or the the dark web; they documenting Hong Kong’s complex subcultures (without a filter), and supporting the homies who are pushing the city forward.” We like to call ’em a skate pack here at the ‘GAN, and the good fellas, and now gals, have been kind enough to lace us with the June playlist! Check check!

Find Goldfish TV here : http://bit.ly/2017GoldfishTV

7on7 – Hood Dreamin