Produced by Dough-Boy
Produced by Dough-Boy
Really liked the set up of this event. Burberry took over the old Diesel store in Central and kept it raw. Raw as in the interior was gutted out to the concrete skeleton, and they decorated it with Alasdair McLellan’s photography and the new collection. The new collection was in E-F-F-E-C-T so everything was kosher. The crowd was young and snap happy. Only the grown heads drank and we drank like fish! Salute to the free flow. We definitely made sure it flowed free! Also dabbled in all the alchol offerings too…Strangely an IPA made an appearance in the midst of all the bubbles. Kinda confused about the photographs on offer. Some slice of life ish from landscapes to portraits of Merry England. I’m a fan of Alasdair but this stuff just felt like wall covering. Good to catch up with friends, enemies, and Burberry peeps alike!
Former Dunhill team still rolls togetha!
How to wear a Burberry trench.
All photos including Top Banner by : Nick D for precursorprints.com
See PT. 1 HERE. < < English continues below after the Chinese >>
粉末代表了自由，某種形式的噴發，甚至可能是性高潮，以及那種驚人的感覺。 當慾望帶走我們時，感覺很好，對嗎？ 在那些時刻，我們想要感慨一下。 粉末也是非常直觀的元素，在照明和皮膚上看起來很好，並且使皮膚變得“髒”，當我們屈服於我們的慾望時，特別是當它們超出規範時，我們常常感覺有點“髒” ，因為那是我們不應該想要的東西。
我們喜歡在工作中有一定的脆弱性。這些東西不是排練得很好，但保持了一些興奮，並推動每個人都盡力而為。 它顯示了一個真正的原始性。 每個人都投入到表演中，我們有非常好的團隊合作。 非常感謝我們前任實習生Jenny，我們今次的助理導演，而且幫我們完成了所有的翻譯。
對於我們的品牌來說，展示我們作品的概念性表演更具有相關性，因為我們能夠展示系列的想法，並通過我們的表演來講述故事。 我們要講故事和敘述，因為它們是我們工作的重要組成部分。 受眾看到的是一個怎樣的故事。 我們希望每個人都帶上一個最適合他們的故事。
What did the powder represent?
The powder represented freedom, certain kind of eruption, maybe even orgasm, and the amazing feeling after that. When desires take us over, it feels good, right? In those moments we want to feast with the feeling. The powder is also very visual element, it looks good with the lighting and on the skin and makes skin “dirty”, like very often we feel a bit “dirty” when we give in to our desires, especially when they are out of norms, when they are something we are not supposed to want.
Where did you cast your models from? Were they provided by Labelhood in the end?
We did street casting. We asked friends, and friends of friends to model for us. Some of the model contacts were provided by Labelhood. We wanted to have a mixture of models, some with a performing background, which was a massive, massive plus. We are super happy with how all the models performed, not just modeled, performed. We know what we had our models do was quite demanding. For example, one of our models arrived just minutes before our first, and only rehearsal. He did amazing job and nailed it; adapted and observed. We like to have a certain fragileness in our work, something that is not too rehearsed, and polished. This keeps up the excitement, and pushes everyone to do their best. It shows a real rawness. Everyone threw themselves into the performance, we had very good team to work with. A massive thank you belongs to our amazing former intern, Zuoran Li (Jenny), who worked as an assistant director, and did all the translations, and everything with us.
Do you prefer more conceptual presentations vs traditional runway shows?
For our label, a conceptual way of showing our work is more relevant as we are able to showcase the idea of the collection and tell the story through our presentation. We want to tell stories and narratives, as they are an important part of our work. It’s up to the audience what kind of a story they see. We wish everyone to take with them a story, which suits them the best.
Stay tuned for our full interview with KA WA KEY coming soon!
All photos including Top Banner by : Nick D for precursorprints.com
One of the best presentations we were able to catch at Labelhood Shanghai SS18 was put on by our friends Ka Wa Key. We asked Jarno, one half the dynamic duo to explain what we saw and photographed for you. Check it out. Part 1 of 2. < < English continued after Chinese >>
在上海SS18 時裝週，其中一個在Labelhood 最好的表演是我們的朋友 Ka Wa Key展示的。Jarno，其中一個設計師為我們解釋一下你將看到的照片！PART 1 & 2! Gogogo!
那個是啟發自皇家芭蕾舞團「變形記」的啟發。我們在Labelhood的表演中展示了一個變形，回應他隱藏的秘密、慾望和執著。 這是一個夢，有些浪漫，甚至關於性，但同時我們有點搞砸了。 這是我們想做的事，卻不一定有勇氣去完成。 表演是關於蜕變和變化。 我們之間所發生的事。 演出混合了動作表演和傳統時裝表演， 很大程度上依賴於服裝和模特的動靜。 我們還想在幕後發佈一些通常只在後台發生的事情，例如在觀眾面前換衣服。 在一天結束的時候，這個時裝表演會是很重要的一部分。
在表演中，有一個“男人”，他發現了他的夢想、想像力、頭腦或任何隱藏的慾望。 他一個接一個地揭示了他的慾望。 起初他有些害怕，但之後開始塑造他的慾望，試圖控制、甚至改變他們。 但他無法做到這一點，他的慾望就像現在一樣出現。最終將他們的圍巾和衣服脫掉，做真正的自己。 最後唯一一個保持不變的人是戴著圍巾的“男人”，他害怕向自己洩露自己的慾望。
“擺脫誘惑的唯一方法就是屈服。 抵制它，你的靈魂因為渴望自己所禁止的東西而生病，使渴望它的可怕變得怪異和非法。“ – Oscar Wilde
是的，這是我們近期工作的一部分，也會繼續使用。 面具總是有些神秘的東西。 這也是我們SS18敘述的一部分，以及我們的Labelhood的表演。 在演出中，它只是隱藏角色的真實身份。 唯一沒有揭開他的臉和眼睛的角色就是“男人”。 他也是唯一一個保持不變的人。 最後他是唯一不符合標準的人，仍然留在自己的衣櫃裡。 正如我們所說，眼睛是靈魂之窗。 我們也想把注意力放在服裝和款式的表現和動作上，因為我們的表演主要是基於這樣的。
Can you tell us about the concept for your presentation at Labelhood?
Our presentation was inspired heavily by the Metamorphosis performed by the Royal Ballet. Our presentation at Labelhood showcased a twink’s transformation in response to his hidden secrets, desires and obsessions. It is a dream, something romantic, maybe even a bit sexual, but at the same time something a bit fucked up. It’s something of what we want to be but don’t necessarily have the courage to be. The presentation is about metamorphosis and change. What happens inside us. The presentation was a mixture of movement based performance, and traditional catwalk; heavily based on the movement of the garments and models. We also wanted to unveil something that usually happens behind the scenes, at the backstage, changing the clothes this time in front of the audience. At the end of the day it is such an important part of fashion shows.
In the presentation there is “a guy”, who discovers his hidden desires in his dream, imagination, mind or pretty much where ever. One by one he unveils his desires. At first he is a bit afraid, but eventually begins to mold them, his desires, trying to control, and even change them. He doesn’t manage to do so and his desires come out as they are, eventually removing their scarves and clothes, being exactly what they are. Eventually the only one who stays the same is “the guy”, wearing his scarf, being afraid to reveal his desires to himself.
“The only way to get rid of a temptation is to yield to it. Resist it, and your soul grows sick with longing for the things it has forbidden to itself, with desire for what its monstrous laws have made monstrous and unlawful.” – Oscar Wilde.
The covering of the model’s faces, this is a repeat motif for you recently. What does it represent?
Yes, it’s been part of our work recently, something we like to use every now and then. There is always something mysterious about masks, people covering their faces. It’s also part of the narrative of our SS18 collection as well as our Labelhood presentation. In the presentation it represents simply hiding the character’s true identity. The only character who doesn’t unveil his face and eyes is the “guy”. He is also the only one who stays as he is. Eventually he is the only one who doesn’t fit the norm and still stays in his closet. As we say, eyes are the window to soul. We also wanted to draw the attention to the garments, the performance and movement of the garments and models, as our presentation was heavily based on such.
We bring you the shopping district of Haven Street in Hong Kong and some of the personalities that inhabit it!
Special Thanks: LUDDITE, Still House, HOLA Classic, Wagamamaplayground, Roadmentic
Filming and Editing: Falcon Lam
Direction : Jose, Chu Choi Ying
Cynthia & Xiao 是香港做得頗成功的本地品牌。兩位設計師都從Central St. Martins 畢業的。Xiao主修Knit wear而Cynthia是design及marketing。他們今季的作品充滿中國味道，例如刺繡、老虎print及由流蘇拼出來的一些圖騰，都隱隱散發着中國的風格。最讓我記住的是灰、黃色的幾套，特別加上流蘇裝飾，簡單又活潑。針織間因不同的交織所成的變化也讓一成不變的針織有了生氣。
攝影 Photo / Photo by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images for Fashion Hong Kong
撰文 Article / Jose Chu
All photos including the Top Banner : Falcon Lam
如果你以爲香港時裝只有Centrestage和那些正正常常的時裝表演，那你已經落後了。Fashion Farm Foundation (FFF) 帶來了一個新東西叫FFFRIDAY，他不是一個什麼Fashion Week，對我更像一個藝術展覽。6個本地品牌都以最切合他們性格的表達方式展示他們最新一季的作品，品牌包括The World Is Your Oyster、Dynasti、Matter Matters、Reo Ma、Curtis Li Studio及KenaxLeung。一日6個品牌，12場表演，確實好趕。加上他們在中環的創聲遊戲機中心和藝穗會兩個地方舉行，行程可以話十分緊湊。
在Game Centre行Fashion Show的確有趣，不過也多了不少細節需要留意。例如每部遊戲機的音樂令表演音樂十分混亂、空間安排也不盡太好。
If you think Hong Kong fashion only has Centerstage, FIRSTLOOK, and some random, one-off runway offerings, well you just aren’t in the know anymore! Fashion Farm Foundation (FFF) introduces an new event to us, they’ve named FFFRIDAY! This is not a so-called fashion week, it’s more like an ‘art’ show, a fashion art show. Six local brands presented their latest collections with individual themes. These brands included: The World is Your Oyster, Dynasti, Matter Matters, Reo Ma, Curtis Li Studio and KenaxLeung, dividing 12 showtimes in a one day schedule; busy by any standard of fashion week. This was compounded by the fact that they separated the slate of shows between the Central Game Centre and The Fringe Club. With already great confusion to the FFFRIDAY schedule itself, this made for a very rushed run to catch the presentations! You say we don’t work? Despite this, the fashion show in the Game Centre was really interesting, I found it to be a very new experience for Hong Kong. It was hard to control certain elements of the show like the music, and space arrangement but the energy and audacity were more than enough to compensate for these deficiencies.
Continued from PT. 1
At first glance, it was hard to find collections I liked. Most collections seemed to clash with my personal taste, but this season it was all about the clash, and trash for that matter. Collections were purposefully assembled to look shoddy, there were hooker boots and profanity slogans, piercings and attitude to the clothing this season. It was a confrontation, and I liked it! The cheung sam company that sponsored and closed the show also caught my eye as they took the very traditional Chinese dress and gave it new life with knit fabrics and cut variations. Salute again and continued success designers! There is hope in HK!
Photos : Nick D for precursorprints.com