MONCLER GAMME BLEU FW17 MEN’S WEAR

Moncler賣的是羽絨,Thom Browne賣的是男裝。結合起來就是很有創意的保暖功能性男裝吧哈哈!誰說上雪山不能潮住上。一套全藍色的斜間西裝、褲和外套,以好像和服綁法的登山繩裝飾。還有Thom Browne的標誌性三色帶背包和後面幾套晚禮服。可能上到雪山都可以舉行一場舞會噢!

攝影 Photo / Marcus Tondo/ Indigital.tv
撰文 Article / Jose Chu
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KNITWEAR SYMPHONY 2017 PART 2

繼續第一部份

驟眼一看,沒有幾個屬於我喜歡的系列。大多數系列都與我的個人品味互相衝突,但今季正正是關於衝突的、你以為是廢物的。系列被有意地組裝成看起來很爛的感覺,那些似妓女的長靴和褻瀆的口號,破洞穿孔的服裝和態度。這就是一種我喜歡的對抗!閉幕時一間有份贊助的「長衫」公司吸引了我的眼球。他們利用了傳統的中國服裝,透過針織面料和剪裁,為舊衣服給予了新的生命。再次為所有設計師致敬及祝成功。香港有希望啦!

Continued from PT. 1

At first glance, it was hard to find collections I liked. Most collections seemed to clash with my personal taste, but this season it was all about the clash, and trash for that matter. Collections were purposefully assembled to look shoddy, there were hooker boots and profanity slogans, piercings and attitude to the clothing this season. It was a confrontation, and I liked it! The cheung sam company that sponsored and closed the show also caught my eye as they took the very traditional Chinese dress and gave it new life with knit fabrics and cut variations. Salute again and continued success designers! There is hope in HK!

Photos : Nick D for precursorprints.com
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OLIVER SPENCER FW17 MEN’S WEAR

也許你有留意到,男裝runway上的model好像越來越老,而且有些甚至不似model的伯伯出現了。不過沒關係,切合現實點也是應該的。由其Oliver Sencer的設計偏向老正成熟。其中我發現他們的褲子剪裁比例全部都比較正常,算不上很trendy但卻切合他們的顧客層吧。今季還有幾件無襟長外套,以往這款設計肯定只有公公婆婆們才會穿。不過現在復古風嘛,有什麼不能再拿出來穿著呢?

攝影 Photo / Marcus Tondo/ Indigital.tv
撰文 Article / Jose Chu
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毒品/SANDRO FW17 AD CAMPAIGN

今季Sandro的AD Campaign及短片,Faretta和Luc Defont Saviard穿越了法國的大街小巷,散發一種優雅又休閒的French Chic。

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PATRIK ERVELL FW17 MEN’S WEAR

近來不少男生比女生更愛粉紅色,原本屬於女性的pink pink今季都走到男裝天台上了。雨衣也好像成了另一個趨勢,Calvin Klein也有類似的設計。不過我更喜歡這款可能在便利店只需$12的透明雨衣,正好覆蓋身體的七分袖設計,又可以看到入面的衣服。就算下大雨也可以「懶有型」了。還有需粉紅色、杏色的毛毛外套,雖然是男裝,但我已經決定要收歸我的衣櫥。他沒有用上今季起常見的誇張肩線,切身的剪裁讓男性看似更高大可靠。

攝影 Photo / Gerardo Somoza/ Indigital.tv
撰文 Article / Jose Chu
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KNITWEAR SYMPHONY 2017 PART 1

對我來說,這個Knitwear Show可能是香港貿發局主辦的Centrestage中一顆秘密的寶石吧。由HKKIDS(毛織創新及設計協會)主辦的Knitwear Symphony 最近幾屆都在香港發掘了不少有趣的人才。今季他們繼續在這個強壯蓬勃的基礎上再進一步。但似乎今次是個較小型的表演?或者可能是因為後台比以前少了近一半吧!當我們繼續深入這個屬於本地設計的秘境,幾個系列倒是有些面熟,但依然存在不少驚喜。—第二部分繼續。

To me the secret gem of HKTDC CENTERSTAGE or it’s incarnation before, is the Knitwear show. Hosted by HKKIDS (Hong Kong Knitwear Innovation and Design Society), the last few editions have produced the most interesting talent in the Fragrant Harbour. This season also continued to build on this burgeoning tradition with another strong showing. It seemed to be a smaller show? Or perhaps the backstage was half it’s previous size giving off this impression? As we have reached deeper into the local design scene, a few collections we had seen before resurface here but there were still many surprises left! PT 2 to follow…

Photos : Nick D for precursorprints.com
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PAUL SMITH FW17 MEN’S WEAR

藍綠和黃色的格仔,很高興再見到你!當年你可是最紅的花紋噢!你總是有種淡淡哀傷的紳士風範。還有你其他的同伴: 比你年輕的碎花恤衫,配起刺繡西裝外套便減除西裝老正嚴厲的感覺。今年流行的絲絨西裝套裝,較淺的寶藍色很文藝,加上雙襟設計更加風度翩翩。

攝影 Photo / Yannis Vlamos/ Indigital.tv
撰文 Article / Jose Chu
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SACAI FW17 MEN’S WEAR

Sacai是其中一個我很喜歡的女裝品牌,當年他和Nike的合作,每一套我都很想買下來!今季他們的男裝,好像和Sacai不太相似,但又好像有點相熟。看看那些在手袖、頸圍和裝飾的Lace花邊,隱隱地散發出Sacai的味道。當然Sacai沒有那麼膚淺只有lace這麼小細節。我很喜歡一套白色印花長身西裝和西裝夾棉外套,再襯毛毛冷帽的一套。就像一朵在寒冷中茁莊盛放的花朵。

攝影 Photo / Umberto Fratini/ Indigital.tv
撰文 Article / Jose Chu
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