BALENCIAGA FW17 WOMENS ACCESSORIES

Yo the womens wear show was already impressive enough this season for Balenciaga but the accessories did not take a back seat! The ceramic/porcelain bracelets that, depending on the style, clashed drastically with the clothes were an amazing surprise. Earrings rapped in scarves, belt cinches, and oversized bags each stood out as some must-have pieces of the season. Styling mucho on pointo!

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RAF SIMONS FW17 MEN’S WEAR

開始迎接男生的珠寶吧!男裝的配飾不再是簡單的銀鍊金鍊了!而是連女生都未必個個喜歡的珠鍊!看看今季不少男裝品牌都用了水晶、珍珠等的材料,看來男裝真的要趨女生化了!I LOVE NY這個梗已經很久了。今季Raf Simons 重新演譯這個老梗。將I LOVE YOU等字句加在那種警示帶,變成Belt綁住model。再加上Print tee的一句「Any Way Out Of This」,很是有趣。有人要去救他們出來嗎?

Top Banner Photography by Joshua Woods
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HKDI FASHION DESIGN GRADUATION SHOW PT.3

Of course a great effort was put forth, without a doubt. Upon closer inspection I feel there was strong innovation from the textile designs, which might have gone unnoticed by most. It was dissappointing to see that my favorite 2 collections also did not make the graduate show. I guess why we are the critics and they are the professors! Regardless best of luck in the near future to the class of 17 and may your creativity compel you to success! SPITGAN is watching!

不過實際上,我對作品卻有一絲失望。主要是每個系列都太過相似,用色偏暗、Layer的造型、西服外套..有一兩個系列我寧願將他們結合為一組。雖然如此,有三個系列也倒是很有趣的。

第一個是Dale To的Moth,雪紡印上橫間,透視入面的直間恤衫,從而產生少許模糊的視覺效果。拼接格仔和和直間的上衣產生對比,看久了可能會有點頭暈,哈哈!另一個是Fa Leung的Conceal掩飾。如果你當日在場,肯定記得頭頂燈罩的這個系列。我特別喜歡他重新演譯了日本和服的感覺,由其那對「4腳鞋」。還有一個John Ng的Mismatch。將西裝當下身或許是個old story,但我喜歡再加上超高腰吊帶褲的男子,好像英國那些年老紳士般,高貴、成熟、優雅。特別一提他用的布料品質很好,是眾多系列中最讓我留意到的。

也許DI的作品未必是最令我驚訝的創作,但他們的作品可穿程度較高,品質也不錯。他們雖然少了一份天馬行空的奇想,卻多了一份踏實穩重。我想這個是兩個Style的學院風格吧!

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HKDI FASHION DESIGN GRADUATION SHOW PT.2

To be honest about this show. It wasn’t to my taste. Trends were touched on, especially sportswear, in all sorts of wacky ways. Extensive layering, was the taste ‘du jour’. This seems to be a rather big HKDI style. Not enough individuality for me. The more artistic collections were like trying to sell some Sailor Moon pieces to a Picasso fan. Everything was an exercise in excess here. Continued in PT. 3.

走入DI Grad show的後台,可能是我見過最舒服的後台!絕對並非貶意!只要你見過一次後台,你就會知道到底有多亂、有多忙。但他們的組織、時間安排、步速都配合得十分好,讓Dresser、Make up、Hair都有充份的時間touch-up整理。Model亦無需在後台玩「鐵人三項賽」,還有時間互動一下,這一點確實十分欣賞。另一樣我也很欣賞的是化妝和髮型的同學。無錯,今次Fashion Show的化妝、髮型是由Image Design的同學包辦的。利用一個活動,讓不同學系的同學合作,做出有水準的工作,機會很難得吧!

第三部分繼續—>

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HKDI FASHION DESIGN GRADUATION SHOW PT.1

So the next gen is graduating! Graduation season is upon us! Our full squad went to attend the HKDI graduation show and see what this year’s crop was all about. First plus? This backstage was organized as F! It was a calm, smooth ship of teams working together. No stress, no frantic nervousness in the air…Truly impressive. Even shows in Paris didn’t look this cool! Who was responsible for this? Continued in Part 2.

我想,在香港讀Fashion,Poly U和HKDI肯定是兩大巨頭。每年他們的 graduation show 都吸引不少行內行外的人。上次去過Poly的Grad Show,令我更加期待HKDI的表現。因為我覺得HKDI的應該比其他院校更有優勢、更多人材。因為DI除了時裝課程,還有造型、舞台、燈光、攝影、PR、傳媒、Event planning等課程,肯定能夠豐富整個Show吧!今次的Grad Show更加聯同其他科一齊搞展覽,一次過展示出DI培訓出來自優勢人材。真不能想像到底每年有多少創意在這個地方發生!

第二部分繼續—>

Photos : Nick D for precursorprints.com
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毒品/ TOGA SS17 WOMEN’S WEAR

我一直覺得Toga在香港是很有趣的一個品牌,因為很多人(即使是時尚工作者)會穿他們的設計..或者是複製設計,卻不知道Toga的存在。例如早前很多人穿的皮扣靴子、皮帶、半開放式百褶裙什至三角形皮頸鏈..
今季Toga告訴我們她進入了一個水彩的世界。一開始就已經有一條好像黑色濕漉的褲子、三格開了不同顏色水彩的恤衫。然後有些像水感覺的設計,像是水面反光般布料的裙子和上衣。還有液化形態的耳環。Toga另一個招牌設計就是使用不常見的顏色配搭,啡色的裹胸上衣、橙色腰帶、灰色西褲和金色鞋都是少見的。但對於那個皮革的手臂裝飾,有點覺得太多了。

攝影 Photo From / Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv
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毒品/ DAKS SS17 WOMEN’S WEAR

誇張的銀飾和金飾、頭巾、長身上衣、復古而且泛黃的白色布料,你大可以感受到今季Daks的印度味道。但在這麼強烈的感覺下,daks還是讓英倫氣息共存了: 灰色格仔的連身裙、杏色格仔的長袍、長身恤衫加金色頸鍊拼灰色西裝…英國和印度千絲萬縷的關係,讓設計變得有故事性,尤其那些西裝配上印度飾物,特別配合Daks的主題: 印度的過客。

攝影 Photo From / Yannis Vlamos / indigital.tv
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毒品/VERSACE MEN’S FALL 2016

Versace re-imaged a Star Trek future for their men’s FW16 collection. Some details and accessories were exquisite!

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