JUNWEI LIN SS17 MEN’S WEAR

小屁孩!由Junwei Lin的Lookbook造型,我得出了這個總結。這並非在批評她的設計,我更想指出「小屁孩」並不是如此負面的一個形象。在時尚圈子中我認識不少這類型的人,他們很直接、忠於自己、有自己一套的生活和追求。他們勇於嘗試,有強勁的親和力,透過溝通暗地讓自己更加進步。他們表面看起來雜亂無章,但實際上有着堅穩的知識背景和想法。而這一個性格特質,我正好在Junwei Lin的系列上也找得到。林君葦的作品看似瘋狂又古怪,但實際上這系列的男裝用上不少傳統男裝板型和布料,例如幼間西裝布和格仔西裝布。又例如傳統的西裝版型直接剪開了一半變成背心上衣。她將傳統的男裝分解得支離破碎,卻成功建造出無規限、忠於自己的系列,讓傳統的男裝工藝不再那麼沉悶。
其實,要當個小屁孩並不容易。你要了解自己,然後夠膽面對自己、忠於自己。假如世界多一些這樣的人,也許會更加有趣!

攝影 Photo From / Courtesy of Junwei Lin
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SHUSHU/TONG SS17 WOMEN’S WEAR

要數近季大熱的時裝,Ruffles、蝴蝶結、厚底鞋這鐵三角肯定不會有人反對吧!由IT走到Lane Crawford定會見到各式各種演繹方法的鐵三角。我想主要有三大原因吧,其一,增加女性感。其二,修飾身材缺點。其三,易於配搭。假如將來你能發現到另一個設計風格符合這三大原因,即使你的品牌不是國際知名,你也肯定能夠賺過盤滿缽滿。
有天我在亂逛online store的時候,在10th shop發現了ShuShu/Tong。這是一個上海的品牌,設計上有不少褶邊原素。最簡單的純色連身裙加荷葉邊點綴不在話下,我最欣賞的是利用粉紅、粉藍兩個顏色的碎花布料拼接而成的作品。坦白講,如果我自己在布棚看到這款布料,我絕對不會有興趣,因為這種碎花給我的感覺就像「上海婆」愛穿的睡衣一樣,和時尚拉不上關係。但當這兩個布料拼接,變成一件短身圓形上衣,不單沒有了我所說的睡衣感。而且還多了一份簡單的時尚感。重點是,別以為那麼多花又圓形剪裁就很難配搭!假如你配的是貼身裙,那造型就更嫵媚動人;假如你配的是牛仔褲,那造型便會清純活潑!你決定好未?

攝影 Photo From / Courtesy of ShuShu/Tong
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XANDER ZHOU SS17 MEN’S WEAR

Oversize 最吸引人的地方就是無論任何身材都著得入。但現實始終殘酷,過份寬鬆的衣服只會讓體型較大的人看起來更擁腫。所以我很喜歡oversize,但我卻不能駕御他。
北京品牌Xander Zhou的設計也不乏寬鬆的作品,而且他沒有很強調的性別定位,無論男女都很適合。今季ss17最難忘的肯定是那故意加長的手袖和放得入兩個model的「肥佬褲」!老實說這條褲子很有創意,直接將大得穿不下的褲子放在腰上,和內褲的拼接,就像有些男性外露內褲那種穿法的另一種演繹!整個系列還有一股強烈的隨意感,例如藍色PU背心外套又突然有一隻手袖走出來、捲起紙幣的耳環、寬鬆的恤衫加一件背心!十分隨意舒服卻不隨便,是一個充滿幽默感的品牌!

攝影 Photo From / Courtesy of XANDER ZHOU
XANDER ZHOU London Menswear Spring Summer 2017 June 2016

XANDER ZHOU London Menswear Spring Summer 2017 June 2016
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EDITOR’S NOTE : NEW LEADERS

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Yes, the big news was again Trump this week and again it involved great disappointment. Trump officially pulled out of the Paris Climate Agreement joining Syria and Nicaragua as the only countries not to commit. For the biggest player in geo-politics to back out of this treaty, the action could have easily triggered a domino effect for a mass exodus. It has been re-assuring to see that the remaining majority of nations has stayed the course.

Yes, this has presented a vacuum in global leadership, and it looks like many have been willing to take on the mantle, and the challenge it presents. The EU is ardent to see it work, and hey China! Opportunity strikes eh? Why not be a leader, spearheading this cause? We all know you got ambitions on number 1, running you on a collision course with Amurica for power and influence. Well here’s an opportunity to exert it!

It is also great to see that people power has also taken matters into it’s own hands. 7 states in the U.S. have officially moved to honor the Agreement’s goals: California, Washington, New York, Massachusetts, Vermont, Connecticut and Rhode Island as of now. Also, a surprisingly large number of the most powerful corporations in the world lobbied the president to hold course including: 3M, Bank of America, Campbell Soup, Cargill, Citigroup, Coca-Cola, Corning, Dow Chemical, DuPont, General Electric, Goldman Sachs, Johnson & Johnson, JP Morgan Chase, Morgan Stanley, Pacific Gas and Electric, Procter & Gamble, Tesla, Virgin Group and the Walt Disney Company*. Whether for the genuine interest of climate protection or the business opportunities this movement represents who cares? Their weight lends a great leverage to the cause.

Amidst the confusion, and anger this has caused it has been re-assuring to see that cooler heads have prevailed to overcome a greater goal. It is re-assuring to see that most of the world’s nations can reach consensus, and put aside differences in this cause. Perhaps socialism is not dead after all. We can unify. As I see our world splinter into smaller and smaller tribes, and groups, it really is the cult of self that has become number one in our culture. I am glad we still have an over riding sense of commitment to society, even as there are more opportunities to isolate ourselves. This action, it bodes well. To new leaders, let’s get it!

A small suggestion from SPITGAN. Incentives to reach these goals ahead of schedule could be offered no? Seems a lot of technology is in place to reach this swiftly and proactively instead of taking the slow lane.

Peace.

* paraphrased from Forbes

DOLCE & GABBANA BEIJING INSTAGRAM

So it came to our attention recently that Dolce & Gabbana’s Instagram had caused a furor. We were rather confused as D&G’s Insta is one of the best going for a fashion brand and in general nowadays! They are using their weight to do something truly inspiring. Travelling the world shooting their clothes and spreading images of positive smiles, and heaps of La Dolce Vita! Their use of real environments and the people that inhabit them are truly vital in this photoshop’ed and manufactured landscape. What was the cause of all the clamor you ask? Well they took this approach to Beijing and netizens in China went bananas over their choice of locations and people. D&G were criticized for showing the ‘ugly’ side of China. The only ugly side that came out of this was the ugly attitude that spilled all over the ‘net. For those that have never been to China. China looks like this. You will see these people, these places where ever you go. And look at these images! All subjects look happy to be in them! Genuine smiles and interaction all around! We were surprised to see that D&G still left the images on their Instagram as we had heard unsubstantiated information that they were forced to pull them from Weibo and Mainland social media accounts. Truly a sad day and a backwards step for China. If ya don’t want people to be shooting this then well don’t be having this. These are Chinese folk! No everyone ain’t a 10 and that’s alright! Get grown mofos! Salute to the Morelli Brothers who shot this set of images and Dolce & Gabbana for being a leader!

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PAUL’S CORNER. APRIL 9, 2017

Oooh the Mothership has landed. A Santa’s bag full of babes, weird, animals and dysfunction. Paul’s Corner, what makes the world go round. Rated Disturbed and NSFW without saying.

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未來之星/YOUNG MAGE. WINDAUS WISTER

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相中的模特兒Cheuk Yee正穿著Windaus Wister的設計。/Model Cheuk Yee wears Windaus Wister in all photos.

攝影/Photos : Nick D for Precursorprints.com
翻譯/Translation – Essy Chiu
造型/Stylee : 2 Dirty Guys
髮型/Hair : Jose Chu,
化妝/Makeup : Tiffany Loo,
模特兒/Model : Cheuk Yee

Windaus Wister這個名字很特別。我們於去年的香港春夏時裝週遇上了這位年輕才俊,當時他坐在香港會議展覽中心一個比較隱蔽的角落,差點讓我們錯過碰上這位謙虛的年輕人的機會。他的攤位看起來有點凌亂,一半以上的產品都已賣出,穿上他的設計的人體模型與整個環境氛圍造成極大的對比。他並沒有嘗試冒充簡約派藝術風格,但整個視覺效果卻讓人感覺在觀看IDGAFery的某個展覽,是一個“毫不費功夫” 的佈置。他的設計不單只個性突出,主題亦相當鮮明,獨特同時予人不順著潮流而行的感覺。整體而言非常優秀!Windaus Wister 像是香港時裝週的一道清泉,令我們有「這個年輕人將會有一番作為」,而沒有空手而回的感覺。

<< 中文版本在英文下面。 >>

Windaus Wister it has a nice ring to it. We met the young squire tucked away in a blind spot of the cavernous Hong Kong Convention Center last spring at the HK Fashion Fair. We almost passed the unassuming dude by. His booth looked like it had been picked over and half the merchandise sold! A mannequin with one of his creative designs looked disembodied from the entire display completely. The whole visual gave off a sense you were staring at some kinda showcase of IDGAFery, opposed to come check my wares. It was quite the ‘no effort’ presentation. It made no attempt to masquerade as minimalism, it just was. It was enough though. The 5 or six garments, not total looks ya hear, where brilliant. Their personality stood out just hanging on racks! The ideas were sharp, unique and against trend. Windaus Wister saved that fashion week for us. Instead of walking out empty handed, we came away with as sense that damn, this kid could do it BIG.

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SPITGAN – Who is Windaus Wister?
WINDAUS WISTER – Lol. Wind is my Chinese name. I wanted to have an English name so I would check the dictionary. In fact Windaus and Wister are two seperate names but when I mixed them together it looked like, sounded like, the IT brand Windows Vista! When I said the name it sounded quite interesting and then I put it together.

SG – Yeah. Its a very interesting name. It sounds like a name of magic.
WW – I met a German guy before and he asked me if I was German.

SG – What do you want Windaus?
WW – I want my lover, and my business.

SG – What do women want Windaus?
WW – All women want to have a rich husband. No need to work.

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PAUL’S CORNER. JUNE 19, 2016

Wildin’ in the heat! Dat madness you love, Paul’s Corner. Rated DISTURBED. +18.

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