VIKTOR & ROLF FW17 HAUTE COUTURE

現實世界變得如此奇怪,那倒不如來點不現實的奇怪吧!不同膚色,髮色,髮型的大頭娃娃,配上不同顏色的唇膏。穿上了由MA-1 Bomber Jacket演變出來的各種產品,有上衣、外套或是長裙,有Plain的也有Patchwork pattern的。顏色上還是沿用MA-1的basic colour Olive,Navy和orange,簡單的搭上球鞋或是Dr.Martens。這個女生看起來很貼地,但目瞪口呆的表情又教人心寒。
但放心,大頭娃娃是非賣品。

The real world has become so weird, why not make some unrealistic, and strange things? This is a fantastical riff on the Skinhead uniform. MA-1 jackets, Dr. Martins, and jeans. The voluminous shapes is sooo Victor & Rolf. I like the interpretations in general here. The doll heads…sure why not…What was that Michael Fassbender movie? The street kind of aethetic grounds it for me and makes it all more digestible. This collection also blurs the line between Haute Couture and Pret-A-Porter, to me resting somewhere in the middle where most Victor & Rolf collections have.


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GIVENCHY MENS SS17

Well it’s the end of an era. Riccardo has moved on from the brand he brought back to life, and infused with a complete new set of DNA. For this, his last season of menswear the silhouette has not changed. Definitely masculine, the advances are in the details. Some zipped collars catch my eye, a stiff, laquered fisherman hat, and zip enclosures to tee’s and blazers alike. No reinvention of the wheel but it’s highly wearable and still a style I dig! The finally of the show also included 13 women’s couture pieces for just random, excess flavor. Wit it!

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討論/CRACKER BARREL : ALEXIS MABILLE FW2016 COUTURE

Felt a little out of touch.

討論/CRACKER BARREL : GILES DEACON FW2016 COUTURE

Travesty.

毒品/FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO COUTURE FW 2016

This Rococo almost look sci-fi. Francesco Scognamiglio Couture FW 2016

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时尚罪/FASHION CRIMES : JEAN PAUL GAULTIER ABOMINATION

Look I really dig me some Jean Paul Gaultier. In his heyday he was one of the best. Remember those Madonna cones? Yada yada. You just gotta call a spade a spade though. This was the closing outfit for his Fall Couture 2015 show. It was generally bad, I can’t front. This took the cake though. What is this? Obviously it is costly as well, its couture! Damn. This can’t be the last thing he leaves us with.

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毒品/FALL 2015 COUTURE HIGHLIGHTS

This season’s couture was like the planets had aligned. Most collections were good and more than a few were exceptional! Here are our highlights for your viewing pleasure in alphabetical order not by rank. For reals it gets better the deeper you go!

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Alberta Ferretti Couture Fall 2015

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Alexandre Vauthier Couture Fall 2015

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Alexis Mabille Couture Fall 2015

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Armani Prive Couture Fall 2015

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毒品/FW2014 高级定制回顾/FW2014 COUTURE REVIEW

值得庆幸的是FW2014高级定制还算短暂。参与的品牌设计范围从巧思概念,到随机甚至丑陋。总体而言,令人大失所望。大多数品牌看起来或是平白无趣,或是半生不熟。同时,我们也注意到了最近许多日装/运动装的蠕变,令成衣收藏和高级女装之间的界限开始变得模糊。最值得瞩目的大约是 Victor & Rolf所打造的“穿着红毯”, Giambattista Valli也不错,而时装新手Hussein Chalayan则与Vionnet时装屋携手,杀出自己的一条血路。许多品牌的系列单品都超过50件以上,无意不在各位脑子画下一个巨大的问好,这有必要吗?以下是我们按字母顺序排列的视觉回顾。嗨呀!

Thankfully FW2014 Couture was brief. Of the brands that participated, the designs ranged from cleverly conceptual, to random and hideous. Overall a big disappointment. Most labels looked uninspired or half-cooked. We’ve also noticed a lot of daywear/sportswear creep in lately which is beginning to blur the lines between ready-to-wear collections and haute couture. A tip of the hat goes to Victor & Rolf for their cheeky execution of ‘wearing a red carpet’, Giambattista Valli did something, and Hussein Chalayan, couture newbie, popped his cherry with Vionnet. A lot of brands came with well over 50 pieces per collection, also composing the question in one’s mind, is it needed? See our visual review in alphabetical order below. Hiyah!

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Alexis Mabille Couture FW14

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Armani Prive Couture FW14

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Atelier Versace Couture FW14

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Chanel Couture FW14

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Christian Dior Couture FW14

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Elie Saab Couture FW14

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Giambattista Valli Couture FW14

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Maison Martin Margiela Couture FW14

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