WOOYOUNGMI FW17 MEN’S WEAR

一種復古和街頭的磨合:大地色、英倫格仔、雙襟大褸融合誇張寬鬆、誇張墊肩、衛衣..等等。一種設計過的隨意,過長的褲子和恤衫,使他們就像從20世紀穿越過來最新潮的藝術家或詩人一樣。後來那些整齊的西裝和絲綢外套說明著這群詩人一絲不苟的個性。

攝影 Photo / Kim WestonArnold / Indigital.tv
撰文 Article / Jose Chu
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OPENING CEREMONY PRE-FALL 2017 WOMEN’S WEAR

早一排在會展的Hong Kong fashion week 見過好幾位來自印度的時裝設計師。當之後我再見到Opening Ceremony的Pre-Fall,我直接聯想了印度的感覺。系列的印花、用色、造型都充滿印度感,例如鮮豔橙、藍、黃的的運用,這些色調在印度衣物很常見!加上不少相片造型都帶上了似頭巾的寬鬆帽子,好像在演繹新印度的感覺。另外還有件印上山峰的外套,好像Opening Ceremony在告訴印度時裝: Welcome to Opening Ceremony World! 哈哈!

攝影 Photo / Courtesy of Opening Ceremony
撰文 Article / Jose Chu
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HKDI FASHION DESIGN GRADUATION SHOW PT.3

Of course a great effort was put forth, without a doubt. Upon closer inspection I feel there was strong innovation from the textile designs, which might have gone unnoticed by most. It was dissappointing to see that my favorite 2 collections also did not make the graduate show. I guess why we are the critics and they are the professors! Regardless best of luck in the near future to the class of 17 and may your creativity compel you to success! SPITGAN is watching!

不過實際上,我對作品卻有一絲失望。主要是每個系列都太過相似,用色偏暗、Layer的造型、西服外套..有一兩個系列我寧願將他們結合為一組。雖然如此,有三個系列也倒是很有趣的。

第一個是Dale To的Moth,雪紡印上橫間,透視入面的直間恤衫,從而產生少許模糊的視覺效果。拼接格仔和和直間的上衣產生對比,看久了可能會有點頭暈,哈哈!另一個是Fa Leung的Conceal掩飾。如果你當日在場,肯定記得頭頂燈罩的這個系列。我特別喜歡他重新演譯了日本和服的感覺,由其那對「4腳鞋」。還有一個John Ng的Mismatch。將西裝當下身或許是個old story,但我喜歡再加上超高腰吊帶褲的男子,好像英國那些年老紳士般,高貴、成熟、優雅。特別一提他用的布料品質很好,是眾多系列中最讓我留意到的。

也許DI的作品未必是最令我驚訝的創作,但他們的作品可穿程度較高,品質也不錯。他們雖然少了一份天馬行空的奇想,卻多了一份踏實穩重。我想這個是兩個Style的學院風格吧!

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HKDI FASHION DESIGN GRADUATION SHOW PT.2

To be honest about this show. It wasn’t to my taste. Trends were touched on, especially sportswear, in all sorts of wacky ways. Extensive layering, was the taste ‘du jour’. This seems to be a rather big HKDI style. Not enough individuality for me. The more artistic collections were like trying to sell some Sailor Moon pieces to a Picasso fan. Everything was an exercise in excess here. Continued in PT. 3.

走入DI Grad show的後台,可能是我見過最舒服的後台!絕對並非貶意!只要你見過一次後台,你就會知道到底有多亂、有多忙。但他們的組織、時間安排、步速都配合得十分好,讓Dresser、Make up、Hair都有充份的時間touch-up整理。Model亦無需在後台玩「鐵人三項賽」,還有時間互動一下,這一點確實十分欣賞。另一樣我也很欣賞的是化妝和髮型的同學。無錯,今次Fashion Show的化妝、髮型是由Image Design的同學包辦的。利用一個活動,讓不同學系的同學合作,做出有水準的工作,機會很難得吧!

第三部分繼續—>

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HKDI FASHION DESIGN GRADUATION SHOW PT.1

So the next gen is graduating! Graduation season is upon us! Our full squad went to attend the HKDI graduation show and see what this year’s crop was all about. First plus? This backstage was organized as F! It was a calm, smooth ship of teams working together. No stress, no frantic nervousness in the air…Truly impressive. Even shows in Paris didn’t look this cool! Who was responsible for this? Continued in Part 2.

我想,在香港讀Fashion,Poly U和HKDI肯定是兩大巨頭。每年他們的 graduation show 都吸引不少行內行外的人。上次去過Poly的Grad Show,令我更加期待HKDI的表現。因為我覺得HKDI的應該比其他院校更有優勢、更多人材。因為DI除了時裝課程,還有造型、舞台、燈光、攝影、PR、傳媒、Event planning等課程,肯定能夠豐富整個Show吧!今次的Grad Show更加聯同其他科一齊搞展覽,一次過展示出DI培訓出來自優勢人材。真不能想像到底每年有多少創意在這個地方發生!

第二部分繼續—>

Photos : Nick D for precursorprints.com
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SPITGAN #1/PAGE DESIGN. DSSENT

With a dope illustration from Hong Kong artist, Olivia Wong. The page design of our DSSENT article. Shout out dem Taiwan boys!

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SPITGAN #1/PAGE DESIGN. JUN KUNG SPREAD 1

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