FFFRIDAY 2017 PT2

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All photos including the Top Banner : Falcon Lam

繼續第一部份 Read PT1 HERE. English below >>

不過The World is your Oyster 和Dynasti絕對適合這個又年輕又活潑的表演場地。由其The World is Your Oyster即場穿衣換衫的表演,幾個男女Model以最日常生活方式展現服裝。就像在家中看書、發呆,但你完全不會覺到沉悶,因為每個動作的改變,都正好展示出衣服的不同細節和特色。睇到一半FFFRIDAY的貴賓F5突然走入觀眾席,謀殺了不少菲林。好像連外星朋友都來支持香港時裝了!之後Dynasti的表演配合了一段動畫,讓他的那種年少輕狂更加強烈。而且他們選用一堆比較看起來冷艷的model,可以說是把品牌特色完全呈現出來。

唯一要挑剔是上到藝穗會的表演好混亂。3個品牌同時進行,真系「睇到一個望吾到另一個」,結果3個表演都不能專心欣賞。不過如此創意的時裝發佈確實告訴了我們,香港時裝開始大膽起來了!可能下次First Look 我會扮怪獸嚇下大家!哈哈!

What an amazing location, The Game Centre! This arcade, an energetic and youthful location, definitely suited The World is Your Oyster, and Dynasti’s image. I loved The World Is Your Oyster’s show. Models changing there outfits right in front of you, lacadaiscally posing like they were in a daze, or reading at home. Straight chillin’. Goin’ through the motions of daily life but showing all details of the clothes and styles. Right in the middle of the presentation, BOOM! The towering presence of supa-VIP, F5, appears! This furry cousin of the abominable snowman cannot be missed. What a cutie! Aliens from space are down with HK fashion! Dynasti follows in the same place. They present an animated video with their show, and make the young and frivolous atmosphere more intense. They girls lookin’ sexy as F too! The girls be, WERKIN IT, stayin true to the brand character.

I ain’t down with the Game Centre to Fringe Club set up though. Is the show over? We head up to The Fringe Club and the first show is caput! Then 3 shows start at the same time?! Aw snap, whiplash. Work it out team. I mighta missed some very good moments here, but this effort is really bringing life and creativity back to HK fashion. Dare to be! Maybe next time I can do some Cos-Play at FIRSTLOOK! Salute.

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JUNWEI LIN FW17 MEN’S WEAR

上季覺得Junwei Lin的感覺是小屁孩。但今季小屁孩好似成長了,多了花花公子的感覺。開始會打扮自己的他,今次多了點配飾如珍珠頸鏈那些。金屬色和大地色貫切整個系列,在西裝外加皮帶和那條裙子,也加強了花花公子那種愛玩、不安分的玩味。那下季會不會又是屁孩的另一個人生階段?

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FFFRIDAY 2017 PT1

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All photos including the Top Banner : Falcon Lam

如果你以爲香港時裝只有Centrestage和那些正正常常的時裝表演,那你已經落後了。Fashion Farm Foundation (FFF) 帶來了一個新東西叫FFFRIDAY,他不是一個什麼Fashion Week,對我更像一個藝術展覽。6個本地品牌都以最切合他們性格的表達方式展示他們最新一季的作品,品牌包括The World Is Your Oyster、Dynasti、Matter Matters、Reo Ma、Curtis Li Studio及KenaxLeung。一日6個品牌,12場表演,確實好趕。加上他們在中環的創聲遊戲機中心和藝穗會兩個地方舉行,行程可以話十分緊湊。
在Game Centre行Fashion Show的確有趣,不過也多了不少細節需要留意。例如每部遊戲機的音樂令表演音樂十分混亂、空間安排也不盡太好。

—下一部分繼續

If you think Hong Kong fashion only has Centerstage, FIRSTLOOK, and some random, one-off runway offerings, well you just aren’t in the know anymore! Fashion Farm Foundation (FFF) introduces an new event to us, they’ve named FFFRIDAY! This is not a so-called fashion week, it’s more like an ‘art’ show, a fashion art show. Six local brands presented their latest collections with individual themes. These brands included: The World is Your Oyster, Dynasti, Matter Matters, Reo Ma, Curtis Li Studio and KenaxLeung, dividing 12 showtimes in a one day schedule; busy by any standard of fashion week. This was compounded by the fact that they separated the slate of shows between the Central Game Centre and The Fringe Club. With already great confusion to the FFFRIDAY schedule itself, this made for a very rushed run to catch the presentations! You say we don’t work? Despite this, the fashion show in the Game Centre was really interesting, I found it to be a very new experience for Hong Kong. It was hard to control certain elements of the show like the music, and space arrangement but the energy and audacity were more than enough to compensate for these deficiencies.

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SEAN SUEN SS17 MEN’S WEAR

孫小峰原本是一個平面設計師,成立品牌,除了是不習慣刻板的工作,也是因為對時裝的熱情。這種由零到倫敦走秀的故事實在勵志!我想就是這股熱血讓他往往能在傳統的造型上找到能夠創新的地方吧!例如今季一件純白色的西裝外套,罕有地在手臂和腰部位置加上褶位。這種通常出現在女裝的小細節可用作於修腰之用,而在男裝西裝出現時,更有多一個裝飾的用途。另外我有留意到一件皮衣外套沒有用上傳統的皮衣領口,反而用上西裝領口,這樣皮褸造型不會太過Punk,反而多一份成熟穩重的感覺。另外他還有兩件印上北京字眼的T-shirt,在這個世代做時裝,一件百搭的T-shirt可以直接成為王牌產品,比起做10套西裝成本效益更要好。這個設計也是一個明智之舉。

攝影 Photo From / Courtesy of Sean Suen
撰文 Article/ Jose chu
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JUNWEI LIN SS17 MEN’S WEAR

小屁孩!由Junwei Lin的Lookbook造型,我得出了這個總結。這並非在批評她的設計,我更想指出「小屁孩」並不是如此負面的一個形象。在時尚圈子中我認識不少這類型的人,他們很直接、忠於自己、有自己一套的生活和追求。他們勇於嘗試,有強勁的親和力,透過溝通暗地讓自己更加進步。他們表面看起來雜亂無章,但實際上有着堅穩的知識背景和想法。而這一個性格特質,我正好在Junwei Lin的系列上也找得到。林君葦的作品看似瘋狂又古怪,但實際上這系列的男裝用上不少傳統男裝板型和布料,例如幼間西裝布和格仔西裝布。又例如傳統的西裝版型直接剪開了一半變成背心上衣。她將傳統的男裝分解得支離破碎,卻成功建造出無規限、忠於自己的系列,讓傳統的男裝工藝不再那麼沉悶。
其實,要當個小屁孩並不容易。你要了解自己,然後夠膽面對自己、忠於自己。假如世界多一些這樣的人,也許會更加有趣!

攝影 Photo From / Courtesy of Junwei Lin
撰文 Article From / Jose Chu
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SHUSHU/TONG SS17 WOMEN’S WEAR

要數近季大熱的時裝,Ruffles、蝴蝶結、厚底鞋這鐵三角肯定不會有人反對吧!由IT走到Lane Crawford定會見到各式各種演繹方法的鐵三角。我想主要有三大原因吧,其一,增加女性感。其二,修飾身材缺點。其三,易於配搭。假如將來你能發現到另一個設計風格符合這三大原因,即使你的品牌不是國際知名,你也肯定能夠賺過盤滿缽滿。
有天我在亂逛online store的時候,在10th shop發現了ShuShu/Tong。這是一個上海的品牌,設計上有不少褶邊原素。最簡單的純色連身裙加荷葉邊點綴不在話下,我最欣賞的是利用粉紅、粉藍兩個顏色的碎花布料拼接而成的作品。坦白講,如果我自己在布棚看到這款布料,我絕對不會有興趣,因為這種碎花給我的感覺就像「上海婆」愛穿的睡衣一樣,和時尚拉不上關係。但當這兩個布料拼接,變成一件短身圓形上衣,不單沒有了我所說的睡衣感。而且還多了一份簡單的時尚感。重點是,別以為那麼多花又圓形剪裁就很難配搭!假如你配的是貼身裙,那造型就更嫵媚動人;假如你配的是牛仔褲,那造型便會清純活潑!你決定好未?

攝影 Photo From / Courtesy of ShuShu/Tong
撰文 Article From / Jose Chu
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