KNITWEAR SYMPHONY 2017 PART 1

對我來說,這個Knitwear Show可能是香港貿發局主辦的Centrestage中一顆秘密的寶石吧。由HKKIDS(毛織創新及設計協會)主辦的Knitwear Symphony 最近幾屆都在香港發掘了不少有趣的人才。今季他們繼續在這個強壯蓬勃的基礎上再進一步。但似乎今次是個較小型的表演?或者可能是因為後台比以前少了近一半吧!當我們繼續深入這個屬於本地設計的秘境,幾個系列倒是有些面熟,但依然存在不少驚喜。—第二部分繼續。

To me the secret gem of HKTDC CENTERSTAGE or it’s incarnation before, is the Knitwear show. Hosted by HKKIDS (Hong Kong Knitwear Innovation and Design Society), the last few editions have produced the most interesting talent in the Fragrant Harbour. This season also continued to build on this burgeoning tradition with another strong showing. It seemed to be a smaller show? Or perhaps the backstage was half it’s previous size giving off this impression? As we have reached deeper into the local design scene, a few collections we had seen before resurface here but there were still many surprises left! PT 2 to follow…

Photos : Nick D for precursorprints.com
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HONG KONG CUSCS FASHION EXHIBITION

有日放假,突然SPITGAN的Facebook page收到了一個中文message(真的未試過有人用中文message我們哈哈!)。原來是中文大學專業進修學院Fashion Design and Business的同學邀請我們去Graduation Exhibition。老實說,當同學帶我去到展覽場地,我有點錯愕。因為那只是學院中一條走廊和班房,地方很小、燈光很暗。但我意想不到,居然不少同學都在自己的架前,可以直接介紹自己的系列。這個行為我十分欣賞,可以看得出他們對自己作品的心思和重視,是我在其他學院展覽是比較少見的。除此之外,每個同學都有一張collection postcard,可以想像到他們用了多少時間準備。

雖然我十分欣賞他們的心機,但既然是Fashion design and business的展覽,我所要求的肯定更多,除了設計,還有視覺效果、造型等等。我必需指出在這幾方面,他們都有很大的進步空間。首先是設計方面,不少貼身設計的作品胸和腰的線條比例略有偏差,導致不少image photo的造型都有衣不稱身的感覺。有些貼身設計什至沒有預留胸部線條的摺位,令穿著時衣料有大量摺痕。布料方面,特別是拼接布料的設計,布的品質重量相差太遠,當這兩種布拼接一起,原本有趣的設計即時被那塊布拖垮了。這點必須注意。

然後是視覺表達方面,19個系列的image photo基本上是同一姿勢,不能突顯設計優點,也帶不出設計理念和故事。而且當日的展覽只有少數同學有留意到展區的設計,使可觀性大大減低,也營造不到系列故事的氣氛。

不過對於這在時裝方面較新發展的學院課程,我覺得已經做得不俗。我記得有一位同學跟我提過,她買回來的布料因爲不是她心目中的透視,於是她一格一格人手挑起部分紗料。這份毅力相信在其他充滿資源的Fashion school找不到吧!CUSCS加油!

攝影 Photo From / Fish Yu
撰文 Article From / Jose Chu
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HONG KONG POLYU FASHION SHOW 2017 PT.2

Photos and article : Jose Chu

就係我開始要發白日夢的時候,有個model 帶着似是洗碗阿姐的手套,穿着我覺得十分有趣的綠色印花拼藍色絲質連身裙,我馬上看看主題,原來是< < C9>> 。通常師奶給別人的印象都比較負面吧!尤其是在香港,我們都會統稱那些年老的婦人、穿着隨意的女性作師奶。設計師Cheng Jannet就給了我一個反思,到底是否師奶就等於醜?或者對於師奶而言,她們為家庭的付出,成就美麗的家園,比起自身的美麗更為重要。不過那個紅白藍的買餸車我實在十分喜歡!但我肯定不會帶它去街市吧!

而最後獲得全場總冠軍的是Jason Wong 的< < Object>Garment>Object>> 。我最記得一個綠色禮物包裝花演變而成的裙子,簡單直接將禮物包裝的物件變成衣服。Jason這個系列某程度上是一個實驗,將大家熟悉的物件變成時裝,挑戰社會對時尚和服裝的觀念。我喜歡這種挑戰式的概念,為時裝或是創作打開另一道門。現在的作品之所以比以往變得單一化,很大原因是我們用現在的框框限死了自己。告訴自己什麼才叫時尚、什麼才是服裝。但設計原本就應該天馬行空,否則Coco Chanel也不能帶領女性走出束腰的年代、Ted Lapidus也不能塑造經典的中性時尚。我想在這個資訊過分發達的年代,只要用多一點時間、一點心機,在整個資訊世界裏行走,肯定會找到更多沒有人發掘過的東西。

終於完Show了。走出門口,見到一堆堆年輕的面孔互相擁抱祝賀。真後悔我當時沒有好好做自己的 graduation project 哈哈!

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<<Garment Contour>> by Leung Wing Sze Rachel

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HONG KONG POLYU FASHION SHOW 2017 PT.1

Photos and article by : Jose Chu

我記得入讀Fashion school之前,還在做頭髮的時候,曾經參與過一個學校的Graduation Fashion show,當時看着後台的年輕設計師們埋頭苦幹,為自己的心血結晶作最後準備,然後看着model一個一個將作品帶上舞台。他們的喜悅、感動、滿足和緊張至今我依然歷歷在目。即使昨日只是到場觀看香港理工大學2017年Fashion Design Graduation Fashion Show, 當全部設計師拖着自己的Model走出來謝幕的一刻,還是有那種熱淚盈眶的感受。

雖然我對Graduation show有如此深的感受,但無可否認近年的畢業作品主題很窄,什至同場都會有撞主題的情況發生。我承認我初時對於這場show沒有太大期待,但結果卻出乎意料地讓我不停拿起手機拍照。

最為深刻的一個是背景突然變了西藏曼陀羅畫,奏起梵文經文金剛蕯多百字明咒的<<Scared Geometry >>。一幅曼陀羅中,圓形代表宇宙;方形代表人工的世界。而通常壇城沙畫在完成後,經過僧人幾日誦經護持,沙畫便會被直接掃掉,然後將沙一半分給參與儀式的信眾,另一半則灑入附近的河流中。沙曼陀羅的以手輕撫即歸空,應該最能呼應「無常、幻化、不執著、空性」的佛偈吧!而設計師Jacqueline Leung 則想透過這個破壞沙壇城的過程,表達對人生和生命無常的看法。因此他將曼陀羅的圓形重新組合,甚至將原本平面的曼陀羅變成3D立體。對我而言,題材、表達方式甚至整個Fashion show的音樂配合都十分新穎。

//下一篇貼文繼續

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<<Veni, Vidi, Vici>> by Lee Shuk Man Christy

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<<Pique Nique>> by Leung Hiu Ching Daphne

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未來之星/YOUNG MAGE. WINDAUS WISTER

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相中的模特兒Cheuk Yee正穿著Windaus Wister的設計。/Model Cheuk Yee wears Windaus Wister in all photos.

攝影/Photos : Nick D for Precursorprints.com
翻譯/Translation – Essy Chiu
造型/Stylee : 2 Dirty Guys
髮型/Hair : Jose Chu,
化妝/Makeup : Tiffany Loo,
模特兒/Model : Cheuk Yee

Windaus Wister這個名字很特別。我們於去年的香港春夏時裝週遇上了這位年輕才俊,當時他坐在香港會議展覽中心一個比較隱蔽的角落,差點讓我們錯過碰上這位謙虛的年輕人的機會。他的攤位看起來有點凌亂,一半以上的產品都已賣出,穿上他的設計的人體模型與整個環境氛圍造成極大的對比。他並沒有嘗試冒充簡約派藝術風格,但整個視覺效果卻讓人感覺在觀看IDGAFery的某個展覽,是一個“毫不費功夫” 的佈置。他的設計不單只個性突出,主題亦相當鮮明,獨特同時予人不順著潮流而行的感覺。整體而言非常優秀!Windaus Wister 像是香港時裝週的一道清泉,令我們有「這個年輕人將會有一番作為」,而沒有空手而回的感覺。

<< 中文版本在英文下面。 >>

Windaus Wister it has a nice ring to it. We met the young squire tucked away in a blind spot of the cavernous Hong Kong Convention Center last spring at the HK Fashion Fair. We almost passed the unassuming dude by. His booth looked like it had been picked over and half the merchandise sold! A mannequin with one of his creative designs looked disembodied from the entire display completely. The whole visual gave off a sense you were staring at some kinda showcase of IDGAFery, opposed to come check my wares. It was quite the ‘no effort’ presentation. It made no attempt to masquerade as minimalism, it just was. It was enough though. The 5 or six garments, not total looks ya hear, where brilliant. Their personality stood out just hanging on racks! The ideas were sharp, unique and against trend. Windaus Wister saved that fashion week for us. Instead of walking out empty handed, we came away with as sense that damn, this kid could do it BIG.

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SPITGAN – Who is Windaus Wister?
WINDAUS WISTER – Lol. Wind is my Chinese name. I wanted to have an English name so I would check the dictionary. In fact Windaus and Wister are two seperate names but when I mixed them together it looked like, sounded like, the IT brand Windows Vista! When I said the name it sounded quite interesting and then I put it together.

SG – Yeah. Its a very interesting name. It sounds like a name of magic.
WW – I met a German guy before and he asked me if I was German.

SG – What do you want Windaus?
WW – I want my lover, and my business.

SG – What do women want Windaus?
WW – All women want to have a rich husband. No need to work.

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毒品/COSTUME INSTITUTE EXHIBITION : MANUS X MACHINA

An exploration into “how fashion designers are reconciling the handmade and the machine-made in the creation of haute couture and avant-garde ready-to-wear”. This year’s Costume Institute, spring 2016 exhibition, curated by Andrew Bolton, presents 150 ensembles dating from the early 20th Century to visually represent the progression. Some stunning pieces here of fashion’s ingenuity. See more in the video attatched below, or in the corresponding article on Models.com here : http://models.com/mdx/an-inside-look-at-manus-x-machina/

All photos by Betty Sze for Models.com

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Iris van Herpen Fall 2014 haute couture

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Left & Center – Dior 1949 haute couture, Right – Alexander McQueen Spring 2012

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Issey Miyake Spring 1990

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FASHION CLASSIC : THIERRY MUGLER AD CAMPAIGNS

Oh Thierry Mugler definitely created some designs that defined his era. In light of the industry now they seem even more ahead of their timen than ever. He dared to dream. Did you know he also shot most, or all of his campaigns as well? He had skills with the lens as you can see! Heart beat props!

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