KA WA KEY LABELHOOD SHANGHAI PRESENTATION PT2

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All photos including Top Banner by : Nick D for precursorprints.com

See PT. 1 HERE. < < English continues below after the Chinese >>

粉末代表什麼?
粉末代表了自由,某種形式的噴發,甚至可能是性高潮,以及那種驚人的感覺。 當慾望帶走我們時,感覺很好,對嗎? 在那些時刻,我們想要感慨一下。 粉末也是非常直觀的元素,在照明和皮膚上看起來很好,並且使皮膚變得“髒”,當我們屈服於我們的慾望時,特別是當它們超出規範時,我們常常感覺有點“髒” ,因為那是我們不應該想要的東西。

你們在那裡找到你們的模特兒?是否最終由Labelhood提供?
我們做了street casting。我們問了朋友,什至朋友的朋友成為我們的模特兒。有此模特兒的聯絡資料是由Labelhood提供的。我們希望有不同的人混合成為我們的模特兒,一個很巨大的圈子。我們十分滿意他們的表現,不止他們的表演、動作。我知道有些模特兒是很嚴格的。例如,有一個模特兒在排練是前分鐘就到達了。他做了很棒的工作,而且繼續觀察和適應。

我們喜歡在工作中有一定的脆弱性。這些東西不是排練得很好,但保持了一些興奮,並推動每個人都盡力而為。 它顯示了一個真正的原始性。 每個人都投入到表演中,我們有非常好的團隊合作。 非常感謝我們前任實習生Jenny,我們今次的助理導演,而且幫我們完成了所有的翻譯。

你喜歡更多的概念表演多於傳統的時裝表演?
對於我們的品牌來說,展示我們作品的概念性表演更具有相關性,因為我們能夠展示系列的想法,並通過我們的表演來講述故事。 我們要講故事和敘述,因為它們是我們工作的重要組成部分。 受眾看到的是一個怎樣的故事。 我們希望每個人都帶上一個最適合他們的故事。

What did the powder represent?
The powder represented freedom, certain kind of eruption, maybe even orgasm, and the amazing feeling after that. When desires take us over, it feels good, right? In those moments we want to feast with the feeling. The powder is also very visual element, it looks good with the lighting and on the skin and makes skin “dirty”, like very often we feel a bit “dirty” when we give in to our desires, especially when they are out of norms, when they are something we are not supposed to want.

Where did you cast your models from? Were they provided by Labelhood in the end?
We did street casting. We asked friends, and friends of friends to model for us. Some of the model contacts were provided by Labelhood. We wanted to have a mixture of models, some with a performing background, which was a massive, massive plus. We are super happy with how all the models performed, not just modeled, performed. We know what we had our models do was quite demanding. For example, one of our models arrived just minutes before our first, and only rehearsal. He did amazing job and nailed it; adapted and observed. We like to have a certain fragileness in our work, something that is not too rehearsed, and polished. This keeps up the excitement, and pushes everyone to do their best. It shows a real rawness. Everyone threw themselves into the performance, we had very good team to work with. A massive thank you belongs to our amazing former intern, Zuoran Li (Jenny), who worked as an assistant director, and did all the translations, and everything with us.

Do you prefer more conceptual presentations vs traditional runway shows?
For our label, a conceptual way of showing our work is more relevant as we are able to showcase the idea of the collection and tell the story through our presentation. We want to tell stories and narratives, as they are an important part of our work. It’s up to the audience what kind of a story they see. We wish everyone to take with them a story, which suits them the best.

Stay tuned for our full interview with KA WA KEY coming soon!
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KA WA KEY LABELHOOD SHANGHAI PRESENTATION PT1

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All photos including Top Banner by : Nick D for precursorprints.com

One of the best presentations we were able to catch at Labelhood Shanghai SS18 was put on by our friends Ka Wa Key. We asked Jarno, one half the dynamic duo to explain what we saw and photographed for you. Check it out. Part 1 of 2. < < English continued after Chinese >>

在上海SS18 時裝週,其中一個在Labelhood 最好的表演是我們的朋友 Ka Wa Key展示的。Jarno,其中一個設計師為我們解釋一下你將看到的照片!PART 1 & 2! Gogogo!

可以介紹你在Labelhood那場表演的概念吧?
那個是啟發自皇家芭蕾舞團「變形記」的啟發。我們在Labelhood的表演中展示了一個變形,回應他隱藏的秘密、慾望和執著。 這是一個夢,有些浪漫,甚至關於性,但同時我們有點搞砸了。 這是我們想做的事,卻不一定有勇氣去完成。 表演是關於蜕變和變化。 我們之間所發生的事。 演出混合了動作表演和傳統時裝表演, 很大程度上依賴於服裝和模特的動靜。 我們還想在幕後發佈一些通常只在後台發生的事情,例如在觀眾面前換衣服。 在一天結束的時候,這個時裝表演會是很重要的一部分。

在表演中,有一個“男人”,他發現了他的夢想、想像力、頭腦或任何隱藏的慾望。 他一個接一個地揭示了他的慾望。 起初他有些害怕,但之後開始塑造他的慾望,試圖控制、甚至改變他們。 但他無法做到這一點,他的慾望就像現在一樣出現。最終將他們的圍巾和衣服脫掉,做真正的自己。 最後唯一一個保持不變的人是戴著圍巾的“男人”,他害怕向自己洩露自己的慾望。

“擺脫誘惑的唯一方法就是屈服。 抵制它,你的靈魂因為渴望自己所禁止的東西而生病,使渴望它的可怕變得怪異和非法。“ – Oscar Wilde

覆蓋模特兒的面孔,這是你最近的一個不停重複的做法。 它代表什麼?
是的,這是我們近期工作的一部分,也會繼續使用。 面具總是有些神秘的東西。 這也是我們SS18敘述的一部分,以及我們的Labelhood的表演。 在演出中,它只是隱藏角色的真實身份。 唯一沒有揭開他的臉和眼睛的角色就是“男人”。 他也是唯一一個保持不變的人。 最後他是唯一不符合標準的人,仍然留在自己的衣櫃裡。 正如我們所說,眼睛是靈魂之窗。 我們也想把注意力放在服裝和款式的表現和動作上,因為我們的表演主要是基於這樣的。

Can you tell us about the concept for your presentation at Labelhood?
Our presentation was inspired heavily by the Metamorphosis performed by the Royal Ballet. Our presentation at Labelhood showcased a twink’s transformation in response to his hidden secrets, desires and obsessions. It is a dream, something romantic, maybe even a bit sexual, but at the same time something a bit fucked up. It’s something of what we want to be but don’t necessarily have the courage to be. The presentation is about metamorphosis and change. What happens inside us. The presentation was a mixture of movement based performance, and traditional catwalk; heavily based on the movement of the garments and models. We also wanted to unveil something that usually happens behind the scenes, at the backstage, changing the clothes this time in front of the audience. At the end of the day it is such an important part of fashion shows.

In the presentation there is “a guy”, who discovers his hidden desires in his dream, imagination, mind or pretty much where ever. One by one he unveils his desires. At first he is a bit afraid, but eventually begins to mold them, his desires, trying to control, and even change them. He doesn’t manage to do so and his desires come out as they are, eventually removing their scarves and clothes, being exactly what they are. Eventually the only one who stays the same is “the guy”, wearing his scarf, being afraid to reveal his desires to himself.
“The only way to get rid of a temptation is to yield to it. Resist it, and your soul grows sick with longing for the things it has forbidden to itself, with desire for what its monstrous laws have made monstrous and unlawful.” – Oscar Wilde.

The covering of the model’s faces, this is a repeat motif for you recently. What does it represent?
Yes, it’s been part of our work recently, something we like to use every now and then. There is always something mysterious about masks, people covering their faces. It’s also part of the narrative of our SS18 collection as well as our Labelhood presentation. In the presentation it represents simply hiding the character’s true identity. The only character who doesn’t unveil his face and eyes is the “guy”. He is also the only one who stays as he is. Eventually he is the only one who doesn’t fit the norm and still stays in his closet. As we say, eyes are the window to soul. We also wanted to draw the attention to the garments, the performance and movement of the garments and models, as our presentation was heavily based on such.

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HKDI FASHION DESIGN GRADUATION SHOW PT.3

Of course a great effort was put forth, without a doubt. Upon closer inspection I feel there was strong innovation from the textile designs, which might have gone unnoticed by most. It was dissappointing to see that my favorite 2 collections also did not make the graduate show. I guess why we are the critics and they are the professors! Regardless best of luck in the near future to the class of 17 and may your creativity compel you to success! SPITGAN is watching!

不過實際上,我對作品卻有一絲失望。主要是每個系列都太過相似,用色偏暗、Layer的造型、西服外套..有一兩個系列我寧願將他們結合為一組。雖然如此,有三個系列也倒是很有趣的。

第一個是Dale To的Moth,雪紡印上橫間,透視入面的直間恤衫,從而產生少許模糊的視覺效果。拼接格仔和和直間的上衣產生對比,看久了可能會有點頭暈,哈哈!另一個是Fa Leung的Conceal掩飾。如果你當日在場,肯定記得頭頂燈罩的這個系列。我特別喜歡他重新演譯了日本和服的感覺,由其那對「4腳鞋」。還有一個John Ng的Mismatch。將西裝當下身或許是個old story,但我喜歡再加上超高腰吊帶褲的男子,好像英國那些年老紳士般,高貴、成熟、優雅。特別一提他用的布料品質很好,是眾多系列中最讓我留意到的。

也許DI的作品未必是最令我驚訝的創作,但他們的作品可穿程度較高,品質也不錯。他們雖然少了一份天馬行空的奇想,卻多了一份踏實穩重。我想這個是兩個Style的學院風格吧!

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HKDI FASHION DESIGN GRADUATION SHOW PT.2

To be honest about this show. It wasn’t to my taste. Trends were touched on, especially sportswear, in all sorts of wacky ways. Extensive layering, was the taste ‘du jour’. This seems to be a rather big HKDI style. Not enough individuality for me. The more artistic collections were like trying to sell some Sailor Moon pieces to a Picasso fan. Everything was an exercise in excess here. Continued in PT. 3.

走入DI Grad show的後台,可能是我見過最舒服的後台!絕對並非貶意!只要你見過一次後台,你就會知道到底有多亂、有多忙。但他們的組織、時間安排、步速都配合得十分好,讓Dresser、Make up、Hair都有充份的時間touch-up整理。Model亦無需在後台玩「鐵人三項賽」,還有時間互動一下,這一點確實十分欣賞。另一樣我也很欣賞的是化妝和髮型的同學。無錯,今次Fashion Show的化妝、髮型是由Image Design的同學包辦的。利用一個活動,讓不同學系的同學合作,做出有水準的工作,機會很難得吧!

第三部分繼續—>

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HKDI FASHION DESIGN GRADUATION SHOW PT.1

So the next gen is graduating! Graduation season is upon us! Our full squad went to attend the HKDI graduation show and see what this year’s crop was all about. First plus? This backstage was organized as F! It was a calm, smooth ship of teams working together. No stress, no frantic nervousness in the air…Truly impressive. Even shows in Paris didn’t look this cool! Who was responsible for this? Continued in Part 2.

我想,在香港讀Fashion,Poly U和HKDI肯定是兩大巨頭。每年他們的 graduation show 都吸引不少行內行外的人。上次去過Poly的Grad Show,令我更加期待HKDI的表現。因為我覺得HKDI的應該比其他院校更有優勢、更多人材。因為DI除了時裝課程,還有造型、舞台、燈光、攝影、PR、傳媒、Event planning等課程,肯定能夠豐富整個Show吧!今次的Grad Show更加聯同其他科一齊搞展覽,一次過展示出DI培訓出來自優勢人材。真不能想像到底每年有多少創意在這個地方發生!

第二部分繼續—>

Photos : Nick D for precursorprints.com
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HONG KONG POLYU FASHION SHOW 2017 PT.2

Photos and article : Jose Chu

就係我開始要發白日夢的時候,有個model 帶着似是洗碗阿姐的手套,穿着我覺得十分有趣的綠色印花拼藍色絲質連身裙,我馬上看看主題,原來是< < C9>> 。通常師奶給別人的印象都比較負面吧!尤其是在香港,我們都會統稱那些年老的婦人、穿着隨意的女性作師奶。設計師Cheng Jannet就給了我一個反思,到底是否師奶就等於醜?或者對於師奶而言,她們為家庭的付出,成就美麗的家園,比起自身的美麗更為重要。不過那個紅白藍的買餸車我實在十分喜歡!但我肯定不會帶它去街市吧!

而最後獲得全場總冠軍的是Jason Wong 的< < Object>Garment>Object>> 。我最記得一個綠色禮物包裝花演變而成的裙子,簡單直接將禮物包裝的物件變成衣服。Jason這個系列某程度上是一個實驗,將大家熟悉的物件變成時裝,挑戰社會對時尚和服裝的觀念。我喜歡這種挑戰式的概念,為時裝或是創作打開另一道門。現在的作品之所以比以往變得單一化,很大原因是我們用現在的框框限死了自己。告訴自己什麼才叫時尚、什麼才是服裝。但設計原本就應該天馬行空,否則Coco Chanel也不能帶領女性走出束腰的年代、Ted Lapidus也不能塑造經典的中性時尚。我想在這個資訊過分發達的年代,只要用多一點時間、一點心機,在整個資訊世界裏行走,肯定會找到更多沒有人發掘過的東西。

終於完Show了。走出門口,見到一堆堆年輕的面孔互相擁抱祝賀。真後悔我當時沒有好好做自己的 graduation project 哈哈!

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<<Garment Contour>> by Leung Wing Sze Rachel

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HONG KONG POLYU FASHION SHOW 2017 PT.1

Photos and article by : Jose Chu

我記得入讀Fashion school之前,還在做頭髮的時候,曾經參與過一個學校的Graduation Fashion show,當時看着後台的年輕設計師們埋頭苦幹,為自己的心血結晶作最後準備,然後看着model一個一個將作品帶上舞台。他們的喜悅、感動、滿足和緊張至今我依然歷歷在目。即使昨日只是到場觀看香港理工大學2017年Fashion Design Graduation Fashion Show, 當全部設計師拖着自己的Model走出來謝幕的一刻,還是有那種熱淚盈眶的感受。

雖然我對Graduation show有如此深的感受,但無可否認近年的畢業作品主題很窄,什至同場都會有撞主題的情況發生。我承認我初時對於這場show沒有太大期待,但結果卻出乎意料地讓我不停拿起手機拍照。

最為深刻的一個是背景突然變了西藏曼陀羅畫,奏起梵文經文金剛蕯多百字明咒的<<Scared Geometry >>。一幅曼陀羅中,圓形代表宇宙;方形代表人工的世界。而通常壇城沙畫在完成後,經過僧人幾日誦經護持,沙畫便會被直接掃掉,然後將沙一半分給參與儀式的信眾,另一半則灑入附近的河流中。沙曼陀羅的以手輕撫即歸空,應該最能呼應「無常、幻化、不執著、空性」的佛偈吧!而設計師Jacqueline Leung 則想透過這個破壞沙壇城的過程,表達對人生和生命無常的看法。因此他將曼陀羅的圓形重新組合,甚至將原本平面的曼陀羅變成3D立體。對我而言,題材、表達方式甚至整個Fashion show的音樂配合都十分新穎。

//下一篇貼文繼續

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<<Veni, Vidi, Vici>> by Lee Shuk Man Christy

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<<Pique Nique>> by Leung Hiu Ching Daphne

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HOOD BY AIR SS17 WOMEN’S WEAR

我已經想不起從時開始Runway上的作品開始鬥癲 鬥誇張。好像大家都為醜即是美下了個新定義。將時裝跳出框框不受限制無礙是件美事。。但也不止於像HBA般穿上如賣魚勝的長靴吧?

我不能理解如八爪魚的長褲,像奇怪路人的黃色風衣。不過我承認我十分欣賞將從來一成不變的恤衫改成吊帶小背心和裝飾的概念。把恤衫放進膠袋內直接掛在頸力,相信在當日的social media 已經瘋傳了吧!

攝影 Photo From / Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
撰文 Article From / Jose Chu
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