KA WA KEY LABELHOOD SHANGHAI PRESENTATION PT2

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All photos including Top Banner by : Nick D for precursorprints.com

See PT. 1 HERE. < < English continues below after the Chinese >>

粉末代表什麼?
粉末代表了自由,某種形式的噴發,甚至可能是性高潮,以及那種驚人的感覺。 當慾望帶走我們時,感覺很好,對嗎? 在那些時刻,我們想要感慨一下。 粉末也是非常直觀的元素,在照明和皮膚上看起來很好,並且使皮膚變得“髒”,當我們屈服於我們的慾望時,特別是當它們超出規範時,我們常常感覺有點“髒” ,因為那是我們不應該想要的東西。

你們在那裡找到你們的模特兒?是否最終由Labelhood提供?
我們做了street casting。我們問了朋友,什至朋友的朋友成為我們的模特兒。有此模特兒的聯絡資料是由Labelhood提供的。我們希望有不同的人混合成為我們的模特兒,一個很巨大的圈子。我們十分滿意他們的表現,不止他們的表演、動作。我知道有些模特兒是很嚴格的。例如,有一個模特兒在排練是前分鐘就到達了。他做了很棒的工作,而且繼續觀察和適應。

我們喜歡在工作中有一定的脆弱性。這些東西不是排練得很好,但保持了一些興奮,並推動每個人都盡力而為。 它顯示了一個真正的原始性。 每個人都投入到表演中,我們有非常好的團隊合作。 非常感謝我們前任實習生Jenny,我們今次的助理導演,而且幫我們完成了所有的翻譯。

你喜歡更多的概念表演多於傳統的時裝表演?
對於我們的品牌來說,展示我們作品的概念性表演更具有相關性,因為我們能夠展示系列的想法,並通過我們的表演來講述故事。 我們要講故事和敘述,因為它們是我們工作的重要組成部分。 受眾看到的是一個怎樣的故事。 我們希望每個人都帶上一個最適合他們的故事。

What did the powder represent?
The powder represented freedom, certain kind of eruption, maybe even orgasm, and the amazing feeling after that. When desires take us over, it feels good, right? In those moments we want to feast with the feeling. The powder is also very visual element, it looks good with the lighting and on the skin and makes skin “dirty”, like very often we feel a bit “dirty” when we give in to our desires, especially when they are out of norms, when they are something we are not supposed to want.

Where did you cast your models from? Were they provided by Labelhood in the end?
We did street casting. We asked friends, and friends of friends to model for us. Some of the model contacts were provided by Labelhood. We wanted to have a mixture of models, some with a performing background, which was a massive, massive plus. We are super happy with how all the models performed, not just modeled, performed. We know what we had our models do was quite demanding. For example, one of our models arrived just minutes before our first, and only rehearsal. He did amazing job and nailed it; adapted and observed. We like to have a certain fragileness in our work, something that is not too rehearsed, and polished. This keeps up the excitement, and pushes everyone to do their best. It shows a real rawness. Everyone threw themselves into the performance, we had very good team to work with. A massive thank you belongs to our amazing former intern, Zuoran Li (Jenny), who worked as an assistant director, and did all the translations, and everything with us.

Do you prefer more conceptual presentations vs traditional runway shows?
For our label, a conceptual way of showing our work is more relevant as we are able to showcase the idea of the collection and tell the story through our presentation. We want to tell stories and narratives, as they are an important part of our work. It’s up to the audience what kind of a story they see. We wish everyone to take with them a story, which suits them the best.

Stay tuned for our full interview with KA WA KEY coming soon!
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JUNWEI LIN FW17 MEN’S WEAR

上季覺得Junwei Lin的感覺是小屁孩。但今季小屁孩好似成長了,多了花花公子的感覺。開始會打扮自己的他,今次多了點配飾如珍珠頸鏈那些。金屬色和大地色貫切整個系列,在西裝外加皮帶和那條裙子,也加強了花花公子那種愛玩、不安分的玩味。那下季會不會又是屁孩的另一個人生階段?

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KA WA KEY LABELHOOD SHANGHAI PRESENTATION PT1

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All photos including Top Banner by : Nick D for precursorprints.com

One of the best presentations we were able to catch at Labelhood Shanghai SS18 was put on by our friends Ka Wa Key. We asked Jarno, one half the dynamic duo to explain what we saw and photographed for you. Check it out. Part 1 of 2. < < English continued after Chinese >>

在上海SS18 時裝週,其中一個在Labelhood 最好的表演是我們的朋友 Ka Wa Key展示的。Jarno,其中一個設計師為我們解釋一下你將看到的照片!PART 1 & 2! Gogogo!

可以介紹你在Labelhood那場表演的概念吧?
那個是啟發自皇家芭蕾舞團「變形記」的啟發。我們在Labelhood的表演中展示了一個變形,回應他隱藏的秘密、慾望和執著。 這是一個夢,有些浪漫,甚至關於性,但同時我們有點搞砸了。 這是我們想做的事,卻不一定有勇氣去完成。 表演是關於蜕變和變化。 我們之間所發生的事。 演出混合了動作表演和傳統時裝表演, 很大程度上依賴於服裝和模特的動靜。 我們還想在幕後發佈一些通常只在後台發生的事情,例如在觀眾面前換衣服。 在一天結束的時候,這個時裝表演會是很重要的一部分。

在表演中,有一個“男人”,他發現了他的夢想、想像力、頭腦或任何隱藏的慾望。 他一個接一個地揭示了他的慾望。 起初他有些害怕,但之後開始塑造他的慾望,試圖控制、甚至改變他們。 但他無法做到這一點,他的慾望就像現在一樣出現。最終將他們的圍巾和衣服脫掉,做真正的自己。 最後唯一一個保持不變的人是戴著圍巾的“男人”,他害怕向自己洩露自己的慾望。

“擺脫誘惑的唯一方法就是屈服。 抵制它,你的靈魂因為渴望自己所禁止的東西而生病,使渴望它的可怕變得怪異和非法。“ – Oscar Wilde

覆蓋模特兒的面孔,這是你最近的一個不停重複的做法。 它代表什麼?
是的,這是我們近期工作的一部分,也會繼續使用。 面具總是有些神秘的東西。 這也是我們SS18敘述的一部分,以及我們的Labelhood的表演。 在演出中,它只是隱藏角色的真實身份。 唯一沒有揭開他的臉和眼睛的角色就是“男人”。 他也是唯一一個保持不變的人。 最後他是唯一不符合標準的人,仍然留在自己的衣櫃裡。 正如我們所說,眼睛是靈魂之窗。 我們也想把注意力放在服裝和款式的表現和動作上,因為我們的表演主要是基於這樣的。

Can you tell us about the concept for your presentation at Labelhood?
Our presentation was inspired heavily by the Metamorphosis performed by the Royal Ballet. Our presentation at Labelhood showcased a twink’s transformation in response to his hidden secrets, desires and obsessions. It is a dream, something romantic, maybe even a bit sexual, but at the same time something a bit fucked up. It’s something of what we want to be but don’t necessarily have the courage to be. The presentation is about metamorphosis and change. What happens inside us. The presentation was a mixture of movement based performance, and traditional catwalk; heavily based on the movement of the garments and models. We also wanted to unveil something that usually happens behind the scenes, at the backstage, changing the clothes this time in front of the audience. At the end of the day it is such an important part of fashion shows.

In the presentation there is “a guy”, who discovers his hidden desires in his dream, imagination, mind or pretty much where ever. One by one he unveils his desires. At first he is a bit afraid, but eventually begins to mold them, his desires, trying to control, and even change them. He doesn’t manage to do so and his desires come out as they are, eventually removing their scarves and clothes, being exactly what they are. Eventually the only one who stays the same is “the guy”, wearing his scarf, being afraid to reveal his desires to himself.
“The only way to get rid of a temptation is to yield to it. Resist it, and your soul grows sick with longing for the things it has forbidden to itself, with desire for what its monstrous laws have made monstrous and unlawful.” – Oscar Wilde.

The covering of the model’s faces, this is a repeat motif for you recently. What does it represent?
Yes, it’s been part of our work recently, something we like to use every now and then. There is always something mysterious about masks, people covering their faces. It’s also part of the narrative of our SS18 collection as well as our Labelhood presentation. In the presentation it represents simply hiding the character’s true identity. The only character who doesn’t unveil his face and eyes is the “guy”. He is also the only one who stays as he is. Eventually he is the only one who doesn’t fit the norm and still stays in his closet. As we say, eyes are the window to soul. We also wanted to draw the attention to the garments, the performance and movement of the garments and models, as our presentation was heavily based on such.

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ANGEL CHEN TOP 3 PLACES IN SHANGHAI

內地年輕設計師Angel Chen告訴我們這三個在上海,她最想您去的地方!
Young Chinese designer Angel Chen gives us her cheeky Top 3 Places to visit in Shanghai!

1) DONGLIANG (amazing select shop carrying Chinese designers, including Angel Chen! LOL)

2) Lane Crawford (if you don’t know you betta ask somebody)

3) The-MIX-PLACE (bookstore fav of Angel’s)

Angel Chen wears her own collection for SS18.
Top Banner and photo by : Nick D for precursorprints.com in Paris
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JUNWEI LIN SS17 MEN’S WEAR

小屁孩!由Junwei Lin的Lookbook造型,我得出了這個總結。這並非在批評她的設計,我更想指出「小屁孩」並不是如此負面的一個形象。在時尚圈子中我認識不少這類型的人,他們很直接、忠於自己、有自己一套的生活和追求。他們勇於嘗試,有強勁的親和力,透過溝通暗地讓自己更加進步。他們表面看起來雜亂無章,但實際上有着堅穩的知識背景和想法。而這一個性格特質,我正好在Junwei Lin的系列上也找得到。林君葦的作品看似瘋狂又古怪,但實際上這系列的男裝用上不少傳統男裝板型和布料,例如幼間西裝布和格仔西裝布。又例如傳統的西裝版型直接剪開了一半變成背心上衣。她將傳統的男裝分解得支離破碎,卻成功建造出無規限、忠於自己的系列,讓傳統的男裝工藝不再那麼沉悶。
其實,要當個小屁孩並不容易。你要了解自己,然後夠膽面對自己、忠於自己。假如世界多一些這樣的人,也許會更加有趣!

攝影 Photo From / Courtesy of Junwei Lin
撰文 Article From / Jose Chu
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SHUSHU/TONG SS17 WOMEN’S WEAR

要數近季大熱的時裝,Ruffles、蝴蝶結、厚底鞋這鐵三角肯定不會有人反對吧!由IT走到Lane Crawford定會見到各式各種演繹方法的鐵三角。我想主要有三大原因吧,其一,增加女性感。其二,修飾身材缺點。其三,易於配搭。假如將來你能發現到另一個設計風格符合這三大原因,即使你的品牌不是國際知名,你也肯定能夠賺過盤滿缽滿。
有天我在亂逛online store的時候,在10th shop發現了ShuShu/Tong。這是一個上海的品牌,設計上有不少褶邊原素。最簡單的純色連身裙加荷葉邊點綴不在話下,我最欣賞的是利用粉紅、粉藍兩個顏色的碎花布料拼接而成的作品。坦白講,如果我自己在布棚看到這款布料,我絕對不會有興趣,因為這種碎花給我的感覺就像「上海婆」愛穿的睡衣一樣,和時尚拉不上關係。但當這兩個布料拼接,變成一件短身圓形上衣,不單沒有了我所說的睡衣感。而且還多了一份簡單的時尚感。重點是,別以為那麼多花又圓形剪裁就很難配搭!假如你配的是貼身裙,那造型就更嫵媚動人;假如你配的是牛仔褲,那造型便會清純活潑!你決定好未?

攝影 Photo From / Courtesy of ShuShu/Tong
撰文 Article From / Jose Chu
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米靚酒純/SWEET RICE. FUKUSHIMA

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Suehiro Kaei酒廠。/Suehiro’s Kaei Brewery

攝影及撰文 (英文)/Photographs and English : Johannes Pong
翻譯/Translation : Derek Leung

某天告訴朋友即將去參觀福島的傳統清酒釀造廠,回應竟然都是震驚與憂慮,然後更開玩笑說我會長出第三隻眼睛和增生一些手腳,並建議我穿鉛質內衣保護自己…

福島地震、海嘯和第一核電廠事故發生以後,實在傳聞誤報謊言滿天飛,唯恐天下不亂。可是,輻射其實是很容易通過科學方法檢測出來,所以是無法掩飾或誇大其詞的。

後來在iPhone下載了Lapka輻射偵測程式,並從有輕微強迫症的居港法國朋友借來別緻的Lapka PEM設備準備一併使用。最近被Airbnb收購的Lapka是一個可連接到智能手機的細小環境監測器,其精確的傳感器會對世上肉眼看不到的離子和分子有所感應,當中一個程式就是可以測量和分析緊貼我們周遭環境的基本輻射水平。因為我那朋友認為第一核電站的災難會令整個亞洲瀰漫致命的輻射,所以他買下那小器具以作傍身之用實在無可厚非。

就是這樣,我出發日本前,便在港到處測試Lapka設備的功能。令人相當沮喪的是文華東方酒店地庫酒吧的基本輻射水平比首都東京還要高,而順便一提的是東京的輻射水平竟又較福島高。

到達福島時,Lapka證實我身旁四周都沒有放射性物質。當然,核燃料棒正在溶解的第一核電廠附近範圍是個例外:沿海地區確實有待從遽變中復甦過來,而有關的漁業亦暫告中止。說實在,福島土地遼闊,當中三個地質區域各有不同,而氣候、文化和語言亦有天壤之別。

我探測到在福島縣內最大的城市郡山市,會津若松鎮和喜多方地區農場的背景輻射程度只有0.17,持續較香港地區的0.20-0.21為低。說實話,香港、上海和東京這樣的大都會全因花崗岩和混凝土建築物太多而令輻射聚結不散,含量較福島郊區還多實在不足為奇。

會津若松連接喜多方的地區就是那肥沃的水稻盤地。海邊的重災區與會津若松連接喜多方地區被郡山山區隔住,距離仿如東京遠離富士山一樣。那福島會津若松的人可吃刺身嗎?傳統會津若松那兒從不多吃魚生或海鮮,與近畿京都的習慣相似。會津若松當地的刺身反而是生馬肉伴辛口味噌,或者像京都同樣吃一種軟軟的腐竹腐皮,即素食版「湯葉」。有些菜式會用上干貝帶出鮮味,與廣東的粵菜不遑多讓。

某晚坐新幹線上行前,查問了東京外國記者俱樂部的數位新聞記者,曾到過福島的都對該縣讚不絕口。然而很多時候,有關福島的資訊發布都牽涉政治問題,這與其他任何小鎮沒有異樣。

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在Daishichi酒廠準備著做清酒的米。/Prepping the sake rice at Daishichi Brewery

參觀的第一家釀酒廠是位於福島田村市 (名雖為市卻更像村落—巴士服務只到晚上6點) 的仁井田本家,成立於1711年,由品牌的第十八代傳人仁井田穩彦釀酒大師主理。他和22名員工負責種植和收割水稻,以及整個清酒製作過程,並對自己的手工清酒製作非常自豪。

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幹將/GO GETTERS : TIANMO (LULU) ZHU

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Overalls – Richard Malone from Joyce Boutique, Sunglasses – Le Specs from Liger Store

攝影/Photos : Nick D for Precursorprints.com
造型/Stylee : 2 Dirty Guys
翻譯/Translation – Jose Chu

SPITGAN : 你可以向我們介紹一下自已嗎?
LULU ZHU : 你好!我是朱湉默(Lulu),今年29歲。我是個中國人,住在上海。

SG : 你的工作是什麼?
LZ : 我是一個在健身行業中的自由工作者吧!我是個健美運動員,也是個專業的健身教練。我亦有為其他健身教練授課及舉辦一些相關的研討會。當然做健美模特兒也是其中一部份吧!有時我會以健美行業中的「KOL」身份出席一些活動。我也有從澳洲引入不同的健美比賽然後轉售中國。總言之,我希望盡量用最少的功夫,做到最多能賺錢的事吧。

<< Chinese continued after English below >>

SPITGAN : Name / Age / Current City / Nationality?
TIANMO ZHU : My name is Tianmo (Lulu) Zhu. I am 29, living in Shanghai, and of Chinese nationality.

SG : What do you do?
TZ : I am currently freelancing in the fitness industry. I compete as a fitness bikini athlete. I’m a certified personal trainer with 2 clients. I also give classes to other trainers, and organize fitness related seminars. Being a fitness model is also a part of it. Sometimes I attend events as a ‘fitness KOL’. I’m also running a bikini business, where I import competition bikinis from Australia and sell to China. In a word, I do whatever that makes money, and trying to make it with minimum effort.

SG : How did you discover competitive body building?
TZ : Many of my friends were competing already before I started it, so body building to me is nothing new. But I never liked the concept of ‘being judged’. I still don’t like it, but now I’m learning to deal with it.

SG : When did you start training yourself? What interested you about it?
TZ : When I started to go to the gym it was about 4 years ago. I was simply looking for somewhere to cope with the stress and empty feeling from my office life, in a healthy way. I benefited a lot from that decision. Training for competitions started last year, 3 months before my first completion. It was not until then I discovered that working out for fun and training for competitions are 2 totally different things.

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