INTERVIEW : 驚喜昀霖 /THE DARING ASIAN WOMEN HE DESIGNS FOR, KEVIN HO, HONG KONG FASHION DESIGNER


Know more about Hong Kong fashion designer Kevin Ho here : http://kevinho.com.hk/
Photos : Nick D for @precursorprints

It was early and it was frantic. The watery cup of McDick's caffeine was not working. Probably needed 3 of them. My camera felt like lifting a fat baby. Ugh. Working my way around backstage snapping away, faces began to blur and designs stand out. Some knitwear pieces really drew my attention. The above one piece, for it's modern cut; I thought flattered the girl's figure. Diggin' the bold color blockin' too. Editing the photos by collection, the pieces belonged Kevin Ho. I did not know this Hong Kong designer, but now I do! We think highly of his work, get familiar now.

Kevin這天的時裝秀真的太早了,幾多杯咖啡都不能將我從熟睡中醒過來。在後台舉起相機時就好像在舉著一個肥寶寶,總之就是累得無法集中。還是睡眼惺忪的我看到了一些針織作品彼為有趣,馬上舉起相機拍了幾張,模特兒好像也被我嚇到了。在之後翻看相片的時候我再次注意到這件針織了,原來是來自香港設計師Kevin Ho的設計。現在一起來認識他多點吧!

<< CHINESE CONTINUES AFTER ENGLISH >>

SPITGAN : Hi Kevin. Can you pls introduce yourself.
Kevin Ho : My name is Kevin Ho, I am a Hong Kong based fashion designer. I graduated from London College of Fashion in 2012, where I majored in womenswear. After graduation, I returned to Hong Kong to pursue my career.

In 2015, I participated in the Hong Kong Young Designer Contest (YDC), a local design competition, where I was honored to receive the best Party&Eveningwear Category award. During the same year, I launched my namesake label Kevin Ho. In 2016, I was nominated by Hong Kong Trade Department Council to participate in the Asia Fashion Collection, an event organized by Vantan and Parco Japan. I was sponsored to debut in Tokyo Fashion Week, New York Fashion Week and Taipei Fashion Week. In 2017, I was awarded Designer of The Year in  the Womenswear category by Hong Kong Fashion Council.

Colour and atypical craftsmanship are the signature of the brand. Often times, you will find bold colours, structural silhouettes and handcraft details in my design.

I would describe my brand as feminine, sophisticated, yet edgy and strong. I love to show the feminine side of women but at the same time give it a touch of masculinity. It’s delicate but not fragile.

My designs always combine structural silhouettes and distinctive textiles to deliver a cutting aesthetic, which is also what differentiates my brand from others.

SP : We were very interested in your collection, seeing it for the first time, this year at Fashionally/Centerstage, especially the knitwear pieces. Where do your design inspirations/references come from?
KH : I have always loved looking at art pieces. I believe art and fashion are connected. I am particularly fond of exploring different shapes and color, and I try to integrate these elements into my design.

This season is named “Vividness”, which is inspired by abstract painting, particularly from artists Lyubov Popova and Albert Gleizes. Focusing on the mix of colors and patterns, I wanted to do something that has the sense of abstract painting, organic and natural. I think it is hard to create that kind of touch by only doing colour blocking, so I expressed it through print design.

A series of colourful abstract prints were introduced this season. Splashes of bright colors resemble those from spray paint. I placed these patterns spontaneously, and in various gradients to mimic that of a colorful painting. The orange color block dress with the splash print turtleneck look is my favorite of this season. The dress itself has a printed panel inserted on the chest, and the hem was layered with contrasting colors, matching with the multi-color turtleneck top. I think this improves the visual impact (of the piece) and gives it a rather distinctive look.

SP : Your brand is 4 years old. What has grown and advanced with this collection?
KH : Yes, it has been 4 years now. The brand releases a womenswear collection bi-annually, including a footwear collection .We also offer tailor-made evening wear design service.

Most of my clients look for extravagant designs with high craftsmanship. Although my brand is currently most recognized for evening-wear, with a few mix-and-match tweaks, I think the clothes I design can be worn both at parties, and casually, on an everyday basis. For example, a metallic draped top could be worn with a denim jacket and jeans.

In the last few seasons, I have been targeting a broader audience, emphasizing effortless and easy outfits, so that these pieces can mix well with others in your wardrobe. I think the printed knit top is a fun item to play with. You may style it with your own solid color item or a multi layered jacquard skirt.

Check out this review of CENTERSTAGE SS2020 from Nylon Magazine here :
https://nylon.com/hong-kong-centrestage-fashion-review



SP : Describe the woman you design for. Her age, her interests, lifestyle, race.

KH : I am targeting a variety of women with fierce attitude. There is no particular age and race I design for.

I would describe them as cool, independent and confident, open minded and fearless. She is interested in fashion and loves art. Will dare to try anything good.

SP : Do you design for Asian women?
KH : I do, most of my customers are Asian. Beside the biannual collection, I also have private design services and most of those clients are local too.

SP : Why didn’t you use any Asian models in your collection?
KH : The show I just had in CENTRESTAGE was promoted by Fashionally, an organization which promotes local designers under the Hong Kong Trade Department Council. Among myself and 7 other local fashion designers, we form a group called Fashionally#14. In each participating group, models were cast by the organizer, although we are allowed to select our preferences on model, hair and makeup. At the end of the day, however, its all depends on what models are in town during said period, and we did use many Asian models in our past shows.

This collection was actually showed in Shenzhen Fashion Week as well, I used Asian models almost for the entire collection there, and they looked great in my designs too. If I am doing a brand show in Asia in the future, I probably will choose many Asian models, as I think using local models can help the Hong Kong audience to picture themselves in my designs.

SP : Do you think it is easier to establish your brand abroad or locally? Why?
KH : I think both have their own advantages. What is good about Hong Kong is the cost is lower compared to overseas. It is very close to China, which makes it easy for me to manage sourcing and production there, and easier it’s to explore the China market.

The advantage to overseas is the exposure. Especially in fashion capitals, they have a well developed fashion industry there, and they are under the spotlight. They have a bigger audience group which I think will present more opportunities and make it easier to reach prominent international platforms.

SP : What can we look forward to from you in the future?
KH : Collections that involve a lot of design development. Surprises of craftsmanship and design that will continue to impress the audience.

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SP : Hi Kevin, 先介紹一下自已吧。
KH : Kevin Ho, 何昀霖,2012年畢業於倫敦時裝學院「London College of Fashion」主修女裝設計。畢業後回香港發展工作。在2015年參加了香港青年時裝設計加創作表演賽「YDC」很榮幸地在派對服及晚禮服組中奪得冠軍,並於同年成立了個人品牌KEVIN HO。2016年我獲得香港貿易發展局的提名,參與日本設計學院Vantan和日本時尚百貨公司Parco 聯合舉辦的AsiaFashion Collection,先後在東京,紐約,台北時裝週等地呈上時裝秀。 在2017年我獲得由Hong Kong Fashion Council頒發的Design of The Year Womenswear獎項。

顏色和獨特的剪裁是品牌的特色。你可以在我的設計上見到鮮艷的顏色,結構鮮明的外形和手工藝細節等。我會形容我的品牌風格是女性化,優雅,前衛和強悍。我喜歡在我的設計裏帶出女性的特質但同時加入了中性的元素。細緻但不脆弱。我的設計結合了結構性的剪裁和獨特的細節,這些元素令此品牌與別不同。

SP : 我們對您的系列非常感興趣,今年首次在Fashionally / Centerstage上看到了它,尤其是針織品。 您的設計靈感/參考來自哪裡?
KH : 我很喜歡藝術,我認為時裝和藝術是連繫的。我時常被形狀和顏色所吸引,所以經常在藝術品裏尋找靈感。

今季系列的題材名字叫「Vividness」,靈感來源是抽象派的油畫, 如畫家Lyubov Popova和Albert Gleizes的作品影響最深。系列專注在顏色和圖案的運用,今季想營造出 一個富色彩和活力的系列。像抽象派的油畫般帶有一絲隨意,不受控制的動感。我覺得單一地使用colourblocking是很難呈現這種感覺,所以最終我透過印花設計來表達。一系列的抽象印花圖案注入了系列當中。圖案像噴墨一樣。我想做到一種不隨意的感覺,所以圖案的尺寸較大,而不規則地在不同位置上出現,顏色由實色到化開淡出,感覺像畫 一樣。

橙黑色拼色連身裙配襯印花樽領是我今季最喜歡的造型。連身裙的衫身加上印花細節,裙擺是雙層撞色的不對稱剪裁配合彩色的印花上衣。整個配襯充滿特色令視覺效果也提升。

Check out this review of CENTERSTAGE SS2020 from Apple Daily here :
https://hk.lifestyle.appledaily.com/lifestyle/realtime/article/20190904/59986192



SP : 您的品牌已經4歲了! 這個系列的發展和進步是什麼?
KH : 對,已經四年了。品牌暫時以一年兩季推出系列,包括鞋的系列。此外也提供度身訂造和派對服設計服務等。

普遍購買我品牌服式的客人主要是挑選一些比較華麗和手工感重的服式來出席一些較隆重的場合。品牌在初始時常被標籤為晚裝類別,但是我沒有意圖營造這方向。我認為我的設計可塑性非常高,只要加以配搭,我的設計是非常適合不同場合和環境的。例如一件金屬色的上衣可以配搭牛仔外套和褲等。

在過往的幾個系列中,我嘗試以一個更大眾化的切入點來設計,強調可穿性。特別是這一季,系列的款式能更容易跟你的衣櫃裏的配件隨意配搭。我認為今季的印花上衣是一件非常容易配襯的款式,你可以跟你的單色物品配襯或者跟多層次題花半要群配襯出不同的感覺。

SP : 試描述一下您的設計是個怎樣的女人。 她的年齡、興趣、生活方式、種族等等。
KH : 我的品牌定位是以強悍和有個性的女性為中心,沒有特定的年紀和種族。我會形容她是剛中帶柔,個性獨立,有自信的職業女性。 很清楚自已追求甚麼,大膽,喜歡留意時裝和藝術及勇於嘗試新事物。

SP: 你的設計大多針對亞洲女性嗎?
KH : 有,我的客人大多數來亞洲市場。除了我品牌的系列外,我還會提供高級訂制的設計服務,而顧客也主要是亞洲女性。

SP : 為什麼你的系列並沒有用上任何亞洲模特兒?
KH : 剛剛在CENTRESTAGE完成的時裝秀是FASHIONALLY 所舉辦的,它是一個香港貿易發展局旗下,推廣本地時裝的一個組織。 FASHIONALLY #14 是一個團體秀, 一共8位設計師,模特兒是由主辦單位安排,給8位設計師一同互用。我們只能提供對模特兒的喜好,髮型和化妝等。但這一切都取決於當時有什麼模特兒 。而我們在過往的時裝秀中也選用過很多亞睿的模特兒。

其實這個系列也在深圳時裝周中發佈過,當時我選用亞睿的模特兒差不多佔整個系列。而服式也相當配襯,效果很好。假若我將來也在亞洲地區中發佈新的系列,我也會選用當地的模特兒,因為我認為這樣可以令到當地的觀眾更容易代入服式當中。

SP : 您認為在國外或本地建立品牌會更容易嗎? 為什麼?
KH : 我認為雙方也有優點。香港的優點是成本相對地便宜,近中國,能夠很方便地穿梭中港兩地,尋找物料和管理生產,並能夠更容易接足和探索中國內地市場。

而在海外的優勢是曝光率,如時裝首都,當地的時裝工業已經發展得很成熟。世界的焦點也是放在那邊,我認為海外會更容易接觸到更大的觀眾和國際平台。

SP : 你對將來的想法是?
KH : 我會繼續保持品牌的宗旨,繼續做好的設計,帶給觀眾優越的驚喜。





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